I tend to bump down the stars a bit on the overgrown obscure trad climbs so i only gave this one star... If you like this kind of climbing however, you will be pleasantly surprised by enjoyable (if a little dirty) climbing with good protection...
Start by clipping the first bolt on Rinobuckets 5.10a or be a purest and pass it up... Break left following cracks along a shallow corner this is the line of Misdemeanor 5.10c... Just before the crux of Misdemeanor Reach left to a bomber flake looks loose but its solid... Keep heading left to another flake system with some vegetation growing out of it... Then up on laybacks and some easy face climbing... The original route headed up and left on a ledge below the roof on Bonehead Roof... I finished up and a little right to the anchor that Jim Shim put up for Misdemeanor... The gear on the last bit is a little more funky but take your time and look around for something good...
A bit filthy but really fun climbing...
Between Bonehead Roof and Rinobuckets... Look for the cracks down lower and the Vegitated flakes up and left...
Well protected with a normal rack...
|By Glenn Cilley|
From: Laconia, NH
May 22, 2010
Years back we use to top out from the big ledge on what is now the top of Med Dose
|By Ryan Barber|
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 18, 2011
I'm gonna check this one out. I noticed the new book says "never done anymore" making it all the more desirable and curious for climbers like myself.