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|Type: ||Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 220'|
|Consensus: ||WI4-5 [details]|
|FA: ||Matt Ledges, Leo Paik 11/20/04|
|Season: ||Early to mid winter|
|Submitted By: ||Matt Ledges on Nov 20, 2004|
Upper chimney conditions on 11/20/04.
This 2 pitch beauty can be found immediately left of Smear and Loathing several hundred yards above 'the privy' and the Gray Jay group campsite. The ice here is visible briefly from over 4 miles away where the trail meets a meadow, but not again until you enter a small, hanging amphitheater (with 3 other climbs) about 200 yards from the ice. Allow 45 minutes for the final approach as you contour up and around a prominent rock band (see approach pics and description to the amphitheater in Mt Craig ice/rock section).
This line follows an aesthetic dripping of ice leading through a narrow rock chimney.
P1 starts on good ice at the top of a snow ramp. Solid placements soon give way to deliberate hooking maneuvers and careful steps on cauliflower-like ice. Ascend 40 ft to a well protected rest. Gently move left on a hollow curtain into the chimney above. Space is tight and swings are limited as the route leads deeper into the chimney. There is some resemblance to Skylight here. Exit onto a hollow snow ramp, to the sound of running water, to a large flat belay station. 160 ft. You can rap here where PI of Glazed and Confused ends off bushes or a tree.
P2 begins with an ascent up a short curtain to a thinly-iced low-angle, rock slab. Move up the rock with an okay fixed LA pin. Traverse right and down for a rap off screws or V-threads or better yet right and up 30 ft to a bush with a hearty 5 inch trunk with 2 long slings & 2 biners. Rap 190 ft down the smear.
5-6 medium screws.
The start of Tunnel Vision 11/20/04.
BETA PHOTO: FA of tunnel vision. Taken by Leo Paik
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