Tunnel of Love 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Lauri Werling, 2001 |
| Submitted By: | shad O'Neel on Jul 25, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: Tunnel of Love. The crux is exiting the crack and...
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Description Tunnel of Love is the rightmost route on the upper level of the First Tier. Start at a right-angling crack leading to a chockstone tunnel through a roof. Climb up through a podded handcrack that turns to a groove (crux). Move left and up through the chockstone tunnel, then continue with the crack on the left wall after the tunnel.
There is a 2-bolt anchor about 100' up, but lowering through the tunnel may be strange, so it's probably easier to bring up your partner, then walkoff to the left, past Tarot Wall, and back down to the start.
Protection Set of nuts, plus cams to 3".
Roof has an interesting fun move.
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| Comments on Tunnel of Love |
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2003
rating: 5.10a
| An interesting climb with a variety of moves.
I found the crux, exiting the hand crack onto the face above, to be considerably harder than 5.9.
Gear: Aliens and Camalots to #3 or #4.
Belay from the top and walk off left, past Tarot Wall, and back down the path to the start. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2005
rating: 5.9
| 5.9 seemed about on for what I did, and the crux was a high step, leaving the crack... however. Rather than go up through the tunnel which is presently jammed with a large rock and appears to be impassible, we traversed left under it and finished on Marquis De Sade. This was interesting and added a second crux, maybe 5.9+. |
By Squirming Coil
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 17, 2010
| I believe if the crux is done correctly then it's a 5.9. But if your sequence is off, it becomes a lot harder. When I led it today, I was off and took two nice whips then pulled it. Later I TR'd it and walked up it. Fun climb!
I also skipped the tunnel due to the blocking blocks and finished on Marquis De Sade. That made for a real nice pull of the roof. |
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