BETA PHOTO: This is the 1st pitch of (I think) the AMC route. ...
Description
Tumble Down Mt. is a massif mountain with three distinctive peaks West, East and North. The West Peak is gotten to by the Loop Trail It's a strenuous hike. Below it's summit is the 700+ granite cliff that is known as the Great Ledge by hikers. It has had a large recent rock slide. Not problematic to rock climbing. The ledge is about 400ft and then a large tree band. After the trees there are many shorter sections of cliff below this summit that start as overhangs and steep corner chimneys before they're slab finishes. the main lower ledge has a steep slab section on it's western side. the central section is a giant v groove with tree band ledges and a series of overhangs are on it's eastern side. Far to the west of this ledge is another ledge that is shorter, approximately 300ft and mostly steep slab that terminates below the summit in forest. The East Peak isn't as high as 700ft of cliff but it isn't short either, possibly 500ft of uninterrupted rock climbing on it's most western side. The base of this wall is reached by the Brook trail. The central and eastern side of the East Peak are slab bands divided by tall trees. A rock climber below will just have to go up route finding as they go because below this peak the slab visualization is blocked by trees except the furthest western edge. When the brook begins to be seen on the trail about 1 mile up head west and the base will become noticeable. The North Peak has no trail to it. From the summit of the East Peak it is easily approached. The southwestern slab has the only decent climbing on it, possibly 200ft. Quite easy after getting past the initial short steep start to gain the slab section. There has been little to no activity on this mountain. There was an old A.M.C. climb but I believe it is mostly gone from the rock slide. The approach to the Great Ledges and summit cliffs must be endured before the technical climbing begins. It is a steep couple of miles of steep hiking up the Loop Trail. Tumble Down Mt. is not a true Alpine condition mountain but it is not an off the road excursion either. Summer climbing should always be safe from Albinism conditions because the summit is in the 3000ft range and bad weather approaching can be seen at a great distance. The rest of the year climbers should be prepared for the worst weather possible. Because of it's location the environment is similar to the N.H. White Mountains environment before above tree line and above Cannon Cliff. Basically the forest between cliff is gnarly pine trees. The Mt. Blue Campground is nearby at Webb Lake. There are large sections of private land around this mountain. Camping nearby and on the the mountain would be trespassing. This mountain is not for the sport climbing enthusiast. The trail is nearby the Great Ledges and rock trundling shouldn't be done on purpose.
Getting There
Turn left on 156 and go to Weld Village. Go straight through Weld and turn left at Webb Corner. Within about 1/2 mile, a logging road (Byron Road) leaves straight ahead in a 90 degree turn. The Brook Trail leaves Byron Road approximately 4.4 miles from Webb Corner. The Loop Trail also begins on Byron Road approximately 5.8 miles from Webb Corner. Both the Loop and Brook Trail heads are fairly well marked but use your common sense and watch the car's odometer.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tumble Down Mt.:
Central Groove 5.5 PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
This climb remains on the wide west side outside ramp ridge of the central depression. It has remained intact because it is away from the rock slides that have radically changed the appearance of the eastern ledges. I posted a route I haven't done. I believed I had until photos were posted, it appears I didn't do it. The A.M.C is a classic route and far better than what I climbed....[more]Browse More Classics in ME
There is great bouldering on the loop trail I did here about two summers ago. There is one boulder at the beginning of the loop trail that is massive. It has good problems all around it. It has one small cave where lots of eliminates can be made. Also, there is a stunning overhanging finger crack, 30-40 feet tall, sharp, and crystally looking on the backside of the boulder opposite of the trail. I was VERY suprised when I stumbled upon this one. If anyone has any more information about bouldering here please tell!
Winter is a great time to get up on top. Snowshoes up the steep Brook Trail puts you at the tarn on top. If the road into the park is clear of snow, drive to the trailhead, but otherwise the several miles in are skiable. Best to call the Weld General Store and get the update, promising to shop there when you arrive.
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