This area has boulders and some crag climbing. I was there in 1982 and used trad. gear. This is a schist rock mt. The west side is slab. In the center of this area, midway up the Mt. it is best for climbing on a 80ft crag amphitheater. The west side of the amphitheater is easier than the east side. The east side has steep cracked walls with shallow corners. Clean, solid and very short walk on a trail through open woods to these crags. The summit rock of the Mt. has nothing to offer for climbing and is very dirty. climbs now range from 5-4 to 5-12 and some are bolted.
West of West Bethel is North Road. Turn off Route to go across river and turn west or left onto North Road. Travel a few miles until rock outcropping and boulders are visible from road. The good climbing is uphill and west of boulders via trail.
Beautiful sustained finger crack up the west side of the central amphitheater crags. Slight draw back is in the fall, leaves accumulate on some of it's footholds. Climber may need to do some excavating with a nut pick to get leaves out of the way for stopper placements. If the climb had traffic it wouldn't be like this. ...[more]Browse More Classics in ME
Alot of the routes here have Paul Cormiers signature handmade hangers on the bolts, if you can find it there is a second tier just above the main cliffline from the road this has three bolted lines two of the 5.9 variety and one thats 5.10.
An alternate approach (best if coming from NH): Rt. 2, Gilead, Maine, turn north onto Bridge Rd., cross the Androscoggin River and turn east (right) on North Road. Drive approximately 2 miles and park on the north shoulder (there is a small rock-cut right next to the road and the river is very close on the south side of the raod). There is really only room here for three or four cars and the shoulder is narrow--do not restrict travel on the road. Follow the obvious climber's trail just west of the rock-cut) up to the Amphitheater (a popular spot for toproping). Tumbledown is a complex climbing area with lots of small crags scattered in the woods. Some of the best climbs are located on the tier directly above the Amphitheater, accessed by a (somewhat sketchy--not a place for kids or beginners to hang out) traversing ledge that goes up and right and begins left of the Amphitheater (look for a fixed rope on the first 20 feet of the ledge system). Mixed routes with lots of homemade (and good!) bolt hangers--bring small rack to #3. Most routes on this tier are in the 5.8 to 5.10 range. Descent via rappel (one 60m rope for most routes, although some will be real stretchers) from trees or double ring-bolt anchors. Please respect this area; it is on private land and continued access depends on our excellent behavior and good stewardship!