|b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
Start with a short, steep and unprotected sequence at 5.8+ up to a lower-angled but still difficult slab. Climb the slab to easier ground above until you come to some loose-looking blocks under a steep light-colored face. Climb the short face (crux) to a small pine tree.
At a steep face, ~10' left of the bulge of Grease Gun Groove.
Crux is very well protected. The easier climbing at the start is unprotected at about 5.8.
The pine tree at the end has rap slings with rings.
From: Jersey City, NJ
Jun 29, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
a nice one-move-wonder bouldery crux with fantastic gear at your chest. The unprotectable 5.8 start earns this a PG13. Great climb for those looking to tick a 5.10+ trad lead.
From: Wayne, PA
May 29, 2013
I have followed this climb twice in the last two weeks. It's a hard start for a short person (5'2"), but totally doable. I probably do the crux differently too. One move wonder...fun climb. Worth doing.