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This is the only bolted route at the wall. Climb through some opening weirdness then flow through the upper moves to bolted anchors. You can also top this route out and step right to the anchors over Gemini Crack.
Whittleton Branch Area
This is a small area, just two climbs and a variation, but they are good beginner climbs if somewhat removed. The wall faces more or less south but gets some shade from large evergreens in the area. This area is on Forest Service land but was approved in 1998 for development.
From Whittleton Campground take the Whittleton Branch Trail (Sheltowee Trace). Follow it for a while until you reach the Whittleton Arch split. There will be a wooden bridge on the right. From the arch trail splits from the main trail you’ll climb up away from the creek and then back down, then cross a small drainage coming in from the left, once again climb away from the creek and return and before you reach a large boulder on the left or cross another stream look for a good sized cliff band on the left. When you near the large boulder on the left head straight up the hill and look for a deep cave with an obtuse dihedral to the left.
Alternate approach: Park where Tunnel Ridge Road meets highway 15. Follow the Whittleton Branch Trail west toward Natural Bridge State Park. After about 15 minutes the trail will have descended to the valley floor and you will cross a small stream coming in from the right. Immediately after the crossing you will see a large chossy boulder on the right. Just after the boulder hike straight up the hill looking for the cave mentioned above.
Both approaches involve approximately the same amount of time.
Bolts, chain anchors