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 ADVANCED
Shipyard Rock
Select Route:
All Tuckered Out S 
Humpbacks in Love S 
Jellyfish and Condoms T,S 
Nutra-Sweet S 
Shipyard Rock Variation T 
Spilling Waves S 
Surging Wave S 
Tsunami S 
Tuck and Roll S,TR 
Waves S 

Tuck and Roll 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: M. Strege
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 665
Submitted By: Dan Dewell on Jul 1, 2001

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Description 

"Tuck and Roll" is a second pitch above "All Tuckered Out." At your entrance into the South Seas climbing area, it can be seen at the sign in as a large, sweeping fin high on the sky line to the east, above an off-vertical face titled "All Tuckered Out." It is to the right of the larger gully and starts ~85 feet up, above the anchors of "All Tuckered Out."

It starts behind the anchors of "All Tuckered Out," and has fifteen to twenty feet at the start which contain the crux of the climb. The remaining portion of the route is 5.8 along the edge/arete of the fin.

This route was not bolted to be an extension of "All Tuckered Out." Attempting to link "Tuck and Roll" with "All Tuckered Out" can result in a serious injury if peeling off at the crux. But when lead from behind the anchors of "All Tuckered Out," the bolts are perfectly placed. Belay for the route is very comfortable behind the anchors for "All Tuckered Out." View of climber finishing "Tuck and Roll" along the edge of the fin from the belayer's position is phenomenal.

Protection includes five or six draws. Keep the bolts at your center or to the left. Rappel down from the bomber Metolius anchors with a 60m rope, nearly all the way to the base of "All Tuckered Out" or rappel off the anchors of "Nutra Sweet" to the base of that climb with a 50m rope and do fiftth class down-climbing. Top-rope is doable.

Enjoy!

Protection 

Route has 5 or 6 bolts. Belay from behind 'All Tuckered Out' anchors. Do NOT link 'All Tuckered Out' and 'Tuck and Roll' together; rope stretch makes a leader fall dangerous. 60m rope required for rappel down to base of ATO (almost, but safe,nonetheless). Otherwise, rappel off of NutraSweet anchors to base of that climb and down-climb the gully or rappel in two pitches, using ATO anchors for second rappel.


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By vernon phinney
From: pocatello, idaho
Oct 11, 2005

Gear Alert
Do you think that if we are linking bolts of separate climbs that we might be placing routes too close to each other?? Is this not creating a gridwork of bolts on a climbing face?? Where in the Needles is this NOT a possibility and should we really do this sort of activity??
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 11, 2005

Tuck and Roll is actually an extention or second pitch to All Tuckered Out. No grid bolting here. Just a valid new pitch.
By Brad Boner
Oct 11, 2005

I would agree that this is not an example of "grid bolting", as there isn't another route next to it that I know of (but I haven't climbed up there in awhile). I think the person who put up this route saw it as a fun way to top out. The crux is low and the belayer should carefully watch the leader.
By Brent Larsen
From: Spearfish, SD
May 2, 2014

Finally sacked up and bought a 70 meter rope and did All Tuckered Out and Tuck And Roll in one glorious, long pitch. Good fun!