Tsunami 

no pics? wtf? i'll take care of this...

What is the story with the pre crux knee-bar on this route? From what I understand the 12d/13a grade is dependent upon the knee-bar. Getting a solid knee -bar here seems to be very specific to distance between foot and knee.

Also, did a hold break semi-recently on the traverse towards the end of the crux (i.e. right of the knee-bar and directly above bad slopey pod and softball hold)?

most people do not use the knee bar because it is so hard to get it set up. knee bar or not, the difficulty of the climb remains the same.

as of yesterday, no hold had broken in the area you are discussing.

The knee-bar is accommodating to most leg lengths. It is all about finagling it in there with the right application of slopey feet. I agree with Randy, however, that the knee-bar wastes more energy than it saves.

Getting into it and comfortably holding it might be nice for a momentary break on the arms, but it burns alot of energy in the rest of your body. My recommendation is to shake out on the holds in the bottom of the hueco. Whether you use the knee bar or not, the grade remains unaffected at what some call 12d, others 13a.

No holds have broken through the crux sequence as of 10/12/2010.

Thanks for the knee-bar info. I had figured out the finagling-knee-bar-with-slopey-feet and found it to be strenuous and definitely kind of pointless. The reason the knee-bar interested me is that I had heard of someone getting a no-hands knee-bar. Not happening for me...
However, no big deal:
No knee-bars = more fitness!
Training bonus...

If you are aiming for the no-handed knee bar, try working your leg in their sideways.. It's awkward, but if you get it just right it will lock you in really nicely. Doing the knee bar this way can be size dependent.

J, by the way is it true you flashed this, Natural, and Genesis all in the same day?? Someone was telling me this the other day, and I was sure they must be confused.. Mad props if you did.. that is no small feat.

Man. I wish that were the case. That would be impressive!
...No, unfortunately I have to work for my 12s and 13s...

Also, looking for someone to climb with at willow, Wednesday (Oct. 19)?

I could be syked for a evening sesh.. I could be there by 5:40

I heard the horn at the crux broke. Has anyone climbed it since this? How has it changed the sequence?

the horn at the crux isn't there anymore. It seems to be considerably harder. it's still climbable though I did the moves just the other day.

I did this one yesterday, felt alot harder. Could be 13a now...? Maybe not..

hyperboleandahalf.blogspot.com/2010/04/alot-is-better-than-y>>>