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Glass Ocean and Environs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T,TR 
Delta Y S,TR 
Get the Net T 
Glass Ocean S 
High Dive T 
Hydroplane T 
Left Tributary S 
Lord of the Long Arms T,TR 
Northwest Passage T,TR 
Open Water T 
Patty's Ridge T 
Right Tributary T 
Sail Away S 
Seam, The T 
Tsunami S 

Tsunami 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor 1992
Page Views: 1,359
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 21, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Tsunami's tiered roofs look initially intimidating...

Description 

Left of Glass Ocean is a gully with a wide crack at it's terminus. Tsunami climbs this, angling right to the bolts that are left of Glass Ocean. It then surmounts a series of roofs. Footwork is, as always, integral. This climb utilizes thin edges all the way up through all the roofs. This is probably the best way to start High Dive. There is one additional bolt than what the Ruckman guide shows.


Protection 

5 bolts and a 3 bolt anchor, if you aim for the top of Northwest Passage's 1st pitch. A piece at the initial overlap wouldn't hurt (.75 size).



Photos of Tsunami Slideshow Add Photo
But once into them, they are very enjoyable.
But once into them, they are very enjoyable.
Comments on Tsunami Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Nov 10, 2005

Between the wide crack and the bolts for Glass Ocean is a really nice face with great edges and sinker nut placements. This is a nicer, less grovelly way to get to the first bolts of Tsunami. If you remember to use lots of long runners, do it in the dark and link it all the way to the top of the High Dive you've got yourself a 3-star climb!

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jun 28, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Otherwise you have a kinda weird route with a goofy top out.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 2, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

An alternate start is to use Glass Ocean's first two bolts and then the first bolt directly above those use a long runner before angling left to the 2nd bolt on the route. Its also possible to get a micro-cam below the bolt protecting the crux.

By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Doesn't look like much from below, but when you get up on the route, there's a lot of fun to be had. You're super exposed, kind of dangling from this roof system, which is way fun, but the holds are all where you need them and are consistently positive.

If you are in the area, make sure to give this one a shot!

By Derek Newman
From: Holladay, UT
Sep 4, 2009

This climb is slightly awkward in the beginning. You need three to four small quad cams for the first quarter of the climb, which is possibly a 5.8; you can do the first three bolts of the 5.9 climb right next to it, but I recommend doing the route the setters intended on doing because there is a really fun undercling move. Prepare to have a lot of fun once you hit the first bolt. I believe the reason this climb was set is because there is a gratuitous amount of exposure once you go over the roof. It is really exciting and there are great holds to power over all of the roofs. Enjoy...

By boltclippinfool
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Steep exposure, old school bolting and some loose rock (pulled off a tennis ball sized chunk), make this a fairly heady lead. Bring some gear for before the first bolt. This route hits the roofs to left of N.W. Passages' first pitch. You can rap from the first pitch anchors of N.W.P.