Start the same as BT Express, up the crimp face left of Primitive Paradox to a mantle. Climb up to the first shelf in the dihedral and cut left onto the face via good feet. Climb straight up past two bolts to the P1 anchor for Primitive Paradox.
This route has decent pro (after the first thirty feet), but it is rather technical and unforgiving. The crux is well protected. Small offset nuts and a rack of singles recommended...
|By s f|
Sep 28, 2012
The crux of this route is quite thin. The book gives it 11b/c, but those who have done it lately put it closer to 11d.
New fixed gear as of 2011
Mar 11, 2013
I'm all for keeping the rock clean and having no bolts at all. But, if you are going to bolt the second half, why not throw one down on the steep start about halfway up? Is it because that would be considered adding a bolt to BT Express? I really do like the steep slab moves up top!
|By s f|
Mar 15, 2013
Both routes were put up a long time ago. This route was a death trap, but has been re-equipped (one for one) with best available technology. As I see it, adding a bolt would be unethical and un-needed; there is marginal gear available as well as a safer alternate start up the weakness to the left. You are right though, BT Express is the plumb line and should definitely be left unadulterated!
Mar 24, 2013
I agree with you on the ethics part and it's not needed. I'd say its more of a don't fall kind of thing. I figured it was because of sharing the same start. Thanks for the response!