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Trundler's Club Buttress
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Pussy Mind Trick (PMT) 
Trundlers Club 

Trundlers Club 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Seth Dyer, JJ Schlick 2001
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 3,787
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jul 29, 2006
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The final face moves

Description 

Trundler's Club, so named for the many large blocks which took flight during the ground up, first ascent, and the bond that is created between people in such events... It is an adventurous, heart kicking route... The line cleaned up pretty well for Sedona, with the middle three pitches standing out as the highlights.


Pitch 1, 5.8?, Start up the slab to big hueco. Continue up casual terrain until a small bulge which is more awkward to pull than difficult. Small to medium cams and bolts take you to a comfy two bolt belay.

Pitch 2, 5.10+, Work your way up the stembox past some decent gear and bolts. At the little cap roof, shuffle right and make the "cross to the choss" move, and then up the long, steep crack which gets wider as you go. A two bolt belay awaits you in the fairly spacious, though a bit dingy Bat Cave. At the top of this pitch keep an eye out for the lone pocket on the right wall to avoid too much offwidthing... Set of doubles to #3 and bolts.

Pitch 3, 5.9, Stem out the cave on the climber's right past bolt, and up to a fingery layback/stem system. Look for crimps and moves leading left around a corner to a ledge and two bolt belay. Small medium cams, bolt. A short, but exposed and fun pitch.

Pitch 4, 5.10+/.11-, The money pitch. Steep laybacking up the featured crack will eventually lead you past a bolt, and up to a small roof feature. Bust a gut on the CRUXY mantle move, and follow unique holds and bolts up to a two bolt belay. NOTE- DO NOT TRY TO RAP FROM THIS ANCHOR!! YOU WILL NOT TOUCH THE CLIFF AGAIN IF YOU DECIDE TO. THE LOWER STATIONS WE LEFT EQUIPPED FOR RETREAT.

Pitch 5, 5TH class, Traverse gingerly, right, past bolts, delicate rock, suspect gear placements, around corner, and down to a nice ledge and belay bolts. This is the Party Ledge, yoo hoo, the end of Trundlers, and the top of PMT. Also, your point of ground return. Hope you enjoy.



Descent:

The rap route descends on the PMT's anchors. Bring a 60, or preferably a 70 meter rope. All stations are steel.

Rap 1: 90' to a small ledge with chains.

Rap 2: 30' Short rap down to the Triangle of Love ledge.

Rap 3: 90' or so to a slopey ledge. NOTE- pay attention when pulling the cord!

Rap 4: 90' feet or so down to the dirt.


Location 

See the description on the main page. This line starts below a giant heuco which is roughly 8' off the ground, and you climb up to it, and pass it.


Protection 

Bolts and a standard Sedona rack of doubles up to #3 Camalot. #3.5 and #4 optional.



Photos of Trundlers Club Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 5 Traverse
Pitch 5 Traverse
The bat cave belay, taken while exiting
The bat cave belay, taken while exiting
Joe starting on the pitch one choss slab.
Joe starting on the pitch one choss slab.
Emily approaching the burly offwidth moves near the top of pitch two.  Save a grey camalot for the end.
Emily approaching the burly offwidth moves near th...
Trundlers Club goes up the large corner system.  In this photo you can see the stem box at the base of pitch 2, which is the start of the steep climbing. This pitch runs all the way to the large looking cave.  This is the Bat Cave belay...  You can also see pitches 3, and 4.
BETA PHOTO: Trundlers Club goes up the large corner system. I...
Roman in the stembox
Roman in the stembox
Greg getting into the "choss"
Greg getting into the "choss"
Roman busting a gut up the weird mantle
Roman busting a gut up the weird mantle
A little ways up pitch one
A little ways up pitch one
Comments on Trundlers Club Add Comment
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By Dean Hoffman
Jan 16, 2011

Really, really enjoyed this route, the move to the first bolt on the 4th pitch is a doozie, but the whole route was a blast. On the rap, if you have a 70m rope you should be able to rap, straight to the Triangle of Love ledge, spacious and lovely... Was very glad to have the #4 and a 3.5, but then again I'm a sissy! Beautiful views and straight forward pitches and raps. Go do it!

By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Nov 7, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Great climb! Lots of variety and well protected. One #4 cam felt like enough to me.

By markguycan
From: Wellington NZ
Nov 12, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Great route, approach is too sketchy to bring the pooch. I'd recommend bringing dbls to #4 and don't forget to eat your Wheaties!!Rap #1 is almost 100ft- watch your tails as you swing in to grab the anchor!! Rap #2 is short down and right. Rap #3 follows a sweet hand crack which has already eaten at least one rope (almost got ours). From Rap #4 we TR'd the first pitch of PMT- intriguing & hard face climbing with safe but spaced bolts: this would make this a very exciting lead. The cracks above look sweet.

By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 29, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

agree with markguycan - approach is very sketchy for a dog. we brought ours per the approach described (the one with the hand line and the limestone traverse) and he wasn't very happy. on the way back we walked straight down to chicken point and it was no problem - in fact I would recommend this approach if you'd rather have something a bit longer but scenic and mellow, or if you're bringing a dog.

one of my favorite routes in sedona.

By Jason Nelson
From: SLC, UT
Feb 12, 2012

A simple approach is go to Chicken Point and then head up a gully toward the route. Here are GPS directions. bp2.trimbleoutdoors.com/ViewTrip/1515945 (note: we had some backtracking due to getting cliffed out)
Rap Beta: use a 70M rope and rap from the higher anchor on the second rappel. 1st person raps down the corner to easily reach the anchors and ties the rope ends into the anchor. 2nd person raps straight down the steeper face and can be pulled into the anchors. The rope won't go anywhere near the crack this way.

By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 25, 2012

Jason, thanks for the approach and rap beta, made it very casual. The route is awesome! Thanks JJ for putting this up!

By K-Tanz
Jan 17, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Absolutely fantastic route! Gear is abundant and rock is relatively solid. We did it January 16, forecast was for a high of about 60 and temps were gorgeous. One piece of beta, though...

When rapping the route at the second rap station BEAR RIGHT (climber's right)! We went left into the abyss (with 70 meter rope) and the rope ends barely lowered us onto the first pitch ramp where some shenanigans ensued. A 60 would have left us totally screwed.

By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 4, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

bring a #4 just for the end of pitch 2. Also if you have a truck just off-road broken arrow trail to chicken point and the approach is only 15 minutes.