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Little Eiger
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Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal 
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Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal 

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V9+ Font: 7C [details]
FA: Daniel Woods?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,479
Submitted By: Steve Woods on Sep 5, 2005
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Robert Balun getting some on the "Animal." Check ...

Description 

Park at Little Eiger. Below the road is a couple of large boulders. Truly Scrumptious is riverside on the right boulder as you face the road.


Protection 

This was done without a pad, but one would be nice.



Photos of Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal Slideshow Add Photo
Beta photo.
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo.
Luke Childers working for the send on "The Animal."  Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado.
Luke Childers working for the send on "The Animal....
Stefan L on Animal, V10. (Note, this pic was taken by Dallas M.)
Stefan L on Animal, V10. (Note, this pic was taken...
Photo Beta for "The Little Eiger Boulders."  Clear Creek Canyon.
BETA PHOTO: Photo Beta for "The Little Eiger Boulders." Clear...
Luke Childers on "The Animal."  Clear Creek Canyon, Co.
Luke Childers on "The Animal." Clear Creek Canyon...
Luke Childers going for the final late night attempt and the long awaited send of "The Animal."  Clear Creek Canyon, Co.
Luke Childers going for the final late night attem...
The Animal topout - Saleem Drera.
The Animal topout - Saleem Drera.
Comments on Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 12, 2005

Sincere thanks for the beta, [Steve], but just a little background: This [Riverside] mini area was first developed by [Marcelo Montalva] and the late, great [Ryan Sayers]. To the right of the main boulder [with 'animal' spray painted on its low roof] is a really short roof-to-grovelfest that's called the [Disembowler]...originally graded seven, but maybe a bit flacid. [Marcelo] put up the roof problem that ascends just left of the '[Animal Tagging', but starting sitting on a cheater block for feet to nab the first roof hold, then pulling on from there to climb the roof and finish in proper style. He had designs to sort it out as a pure roof line, but hasn't been back in years.

Right of the [Animal Tagging] is a line/project that does a few fierce moves to gain the lip of the small roof and top out the really tall face.

I haven't been back up to investigate which is dw's line, but I suspect that it was the 'pure' version of [Marcelo's] left roof problem.

keep sending em--justin j.

By Steve Woods
Sep 12, 2005

AC, your suspicion is correct... DW's line is the same as Celos (left of Animal Tagging) but without a "cheater block" start. He said he did three or four hard moves before reaching the lip. --cheers

By Luke Childers
Aug 7, 2009
rating: V11 8A

Hello all. I gave this one a run this afternoon but was unsure of the starting holds? It seemed like the logical start would be in the crack/gash in the back of the roof then placing one's feet on the wall and pushing past the crimps to the lip and over? It seemed contrived to sit with your but on the blocks and then move to the crack/gash but I'm not sure? Any one have info on this line for the correct starting holds.

Fun line... wish all the spray paint was not all over the walls.

By Luke Childers
Aug 10, 2009
rating: V11 8A

Sent this beast!! Got the move figured. No need for input that I was asking for earlier. Thanks.

By j.jaeger
Nov 23, 2009

For what it's worth... a video. Note that DW's beta was different when he climbed on it due to a meddling block that was in the landing at that time. This block was removed in '07 by an unknown, which admittedly made for much better climbing.

By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Dec 19, 2009
rating: V9 7C

No way this is even V10.