Truffle Hog 5.10b/c
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Travis Peckham |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Jul 28, 2012 |
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Description 2 pitches of dramatically different climbing.
The first pitch is quite nice, and gets better the higher you climb. It starts on a steep-ish leftward angling rail/flake (suspect rock), transitions into a nice bucket ladder with friendly pinches (rock quality gets a little better), and finishes with a more of the same to a semi-mantle move 10 ft. above your last bolt. Well-placed bolts protect the entire pitch, and an option yellow Alien 4 ft. below the anchor to keep the pucker factor low (5.8).
Off the belay, pitch two arcs out slightly right to the first bolt, then moves back left into an interesting scoop/right-facing corner (finger-sized cam, optional). At this point, the route continues straight up, remaining just right of "Arms Reduction", and toeing the edge of the sharp, airy arete. With its superb positioning and unlikely passage, this pitch checks in at low to mid- 5.10, depending on who you ask. With just draws, it protects reasonably well, though a finger-sized cam is welcomed.
2 rappels with a single 60 m. rope will get you down.
Location 10-15 ft. left of "Kid Charlemagne".
Protection Draws, long slings, a .75 Cam, plus a few medium-sized nuts.
By Derek Doucet
Jul 29, 2012
rating: 5.10-
| Hi Chris,
In my opinion, this pitch is one of the very best at the 82, and high on my list of best moderate clip-ups anywhere. 5.10- PG. One could perhaps make it G-rated by carrying a midsize nut or two, but it is perfectly reasonable with just draws, including a couple of shoulder length rigs.
Finally, like almost all of the routes on the 82 main face, I highly recommend climbing Truffle Hog as a single, absolutely awesome 150' pitch. 15 or so draws / runners does the trick nicely. Judicious use of long runners essentially eliminates rope drag. Care should be taken when setting up the belay at the top. I'd recommend against just blindly heading to either the Arms Reduction bolts or the Year of the Dog rap tree. Belaying from either sets up your second for a potentially problematic (and rope-shredding) pendulum off the final moves, and there are better options readily available. |
By Derek Doucet
Jul 29, 2012
rating: 5.10-
| What would you give it? Trav gives it .10a or maybe .10b at most in the new book. Seemed about right to me, but YMMV, I suppose. Whatever the grade, it sure is a fun one. |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Jul 30, 2012
| I'd suggest 10b, but perhaps after climbing it a few more times, I'd agree on 10-. Compared to other 10as on the cliff, this rig seemed a little stout. |
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