|1,087 page views|
Based on the description, true religion is the cra...
Get into the alcove on the southeast face of Parachute (see Alcove 5.9 route for directions). True Religion starts at the climbers right corner of the angled slab out of the alcove. It is about 15 feet of true 5.10c where you lay back and smear with the feet up the slightly overhanging corner crack. It is an amazing finger crack and feels totally solid with good depth and a sharp corner. The scary part for me was the feet at the exit of the overhang onto the main southeast face. Once on the face it follows the hand and finger crack ~5.9 up to where all the southeast face pitches end, at the second pitch that takes you up to the top of Parachute.
Pitch 2 starts left of the corner between the south face and the southeast face.
I TR'd it after climbing up the Alcove 5.9 route, but small Camalots #0.25-.5 for the alcove crack and up to #2 Camalot for face crack. You can actually test your pro to see what works for you at the top of the slab before you commit to the corner crack.
BETA PHOTO: Southeast face.
From the belay on the left side.
At the top of the overhang, looking down.
|By Darin Lang|
Jun 10, 2004
A committing lead, and pretty burly for 10c. I've climbed some easier 11s, but I'll split the difference and call it 10d.
|By Michael J Yarros|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 5, 2005
I aid-soloed this route today. This is a great route. The rock quality is excellent. The most challenging part obviously the overhanging crack section. Also, Thanks to whoever put the Bolted Rap station(s) at the top of the first pitch.
|By Chad Stebbins|
Aug 13, 2007
I agree that this route feels harder than 5.10 on lead. Gear placement is very strenuous and difficult to see. The rock is very slick, so all the stances are tenuous. It is much easier on TR, when you can lay it back and fire through the steep start.
|By Tom A.|
From: Co. Springs
Jan 29, 2008
First ascent was with Mac Johnson on lead and myself following. Mac thought it was 5.10 and it was one of my 1st 10,s so I thought it was hard. Done fall of 1981.
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jun 25, 2008
I was actually surprised how solid the layback was. As you get higher, it gets deeper and more sharp, allowing you to really grip the edge well. Establishing yourself in the crack above the layback felt like the crux.