True Penitence 5.11a
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Jim DiNapoli, '84, Sam Lightner, Jr., '87 |
| Submitted By: | Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006 |
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Description This is a stellar, burly route. I love goading young, aspiring trad climbers to get onto it. If you're in the canyon and a short, napolean-complex guy with male-pattern-baldness tries to talk you into climbing it, then it's probably me.
Location Just past the Virgin painting, where the canyon makes a bend to the right. This is the wide crack formed by the large egg-shaped bolder leaning against the main canyon wall.
Protection Gear to #4 Camalot. I know it looks like #3s, but trust me!
| Comments on True Penitence |
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By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Sep 12, 2007
| Is this that steep, laser-cut corner crack? If so, I got on this thing thinking it was wide hands- I ended up getting worked trying to do do kick-throughs/ bumping handstacks up the whole thing. OW all the way. Bring a (new) #5 Camalot for the top. Hightops, pants, long sleeve shirt highly recomended. Six stars. |
By Scott Beguin
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.10+
| Awesome route!!! Bring Camalots: 1-#2 with a shoulder runner, 3-#4, 1-#5, and 1-#6. One of the best ticks anywhere. |
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
Jul 3, 2012
| If this is what I think it is, then I was told, back in the '80s, I got the F.A. However, that was like '87, not '84, so if the info is right, then I am wrong. For what it's worth, I called it "Vogon Poetry". |
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Oct 18, 2012
| Tape!!!! This thing will feast on exposed flesh.... 1 #2 2#4 2#5 that's it. Oh, an' pack a lunch because this bitch pig is steep! |
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