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Solar Collector/Gold Coast
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True Love 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: David Hume
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,272
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Mar 3, 2011

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Mike moving up towards the crux of True Love.

Description 

This sick crimpfest will test your ability to adhere to the worst slopey holds imaginable. Many a Golden Boy suitor has peered to the right to inspect the holds of True Love only to remark that it only has footholds, not handholds. Rest assured, the holds are there, but they require precision and control to hang onto.

Start as for Golden Boy with a few long reaches to a mantle onto a ledge, chalk up and mount the face above. The first couple bolts will weed out those not up to the challenge, if these moves feel hard, try Golden Boy instead. The crux, at about mid-height, consists of a V8-9 boulder problem with delicate moves between insecure holds. Above this, the climbing eases dramatically with an enjoyable series of long reaches between large, slopey pockets.

Location 

On the Gold Coast, this is the furthest right route on the main wall, proper (not counting the bolted dihedral). It's just right of Golden Boy.

Protection 

bolts


Photos of True Love Slideshow Add Photo
Mike leaving the ledge at the 2nd bolt of True Love.
Mike leaving the ledge at the 2nd bolt of True Lov...
Mike straining through the crux of True Love.
Mike straining through the crux of True Love.
Nearing the top of True Love.
Nearing the top of True Love.
Mike struggling to hang from the poor holds in the crux of True Love.
Mike struggling to hang from the poor holds in the...

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