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True Grip 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Mike Clark, February 1978
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Feb 17, 2013
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Description 

This route has two cruxes of equal difficulty, but very different protection. The pitch one crux, an undercling left under a small overlap, takes some marginal nuts. The second crux, a traverse right out of Tollhouse Traverse, is well protected with several bolts.

Pitch 1 climbs straight up to a small overlap. Undercling left(5.10a) to a ledge with a bolt. Climb straight up to a short lieback over a bulge and belay on the huge ledge.

Pitch 2 climbs straight up the face(5.6-5.7) passing one bolt about 75' up. Belay on small footholds just below a bolt on the right wall of Tollhouse Traverse.

Pitch 3 clips the bolt and traverse right(5.10a) to a second bolt and then up and right to join Marvin's Mantel.


Location 

This route starts about 75'left of the start of Tollhouse Traverse.


Protection 

Gear required on pitch 1(undercling - small stoppers; lieback - 2"; belay - 0.75"-1"); for the belay on pitch 2 (1/2" to 1"). The four bolts on this climb have been replaced with new, stainless steel, 5-piece Powers bolts.



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