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BETA PHOTO: True Grip and Flake Roof
|Some areas require a guide.|
Pitch one is 5.8 trad with one bolt. Decent but not great. Good pro. Full rope 50m pitch. Hard to see belay legde up and left. Ledge is good with two bolt abchor. Pitch two is classic full rope 50m pitch. Five bolts and a piton. Can add some small cams. Crux is headwall with large hueco and super crimpers. Pitch two is exposed and awesome. This climb is often overlooked. Pitch two is 10a.
Start is hard to see. Behind large tree and up some large boulders into gully.
Susan pulling the big headwall huecos.
|By Russ Walling|
Oct 16, 2007
Pitch #1: Start in the wide cracks to the right of the Flake Roof. Easy climbing is found on a mixture of the left and right faces of the wide crack. If you want pro, bring something in the 4" range to protect the moves before the lone bolt found at about 40ft up. Clip the bolt, make a move out right onto the face for exactly two moves and continue up 3rd class huecos to where a thin crack moves out left right by a small roof. You can pro under this roof with a 1" and a 2" cam. A couple of 5.6 moves out left puts you at a two bolt anchor.
Pitch #2: Clip a bolt about 3 feet left of the station and start heading up toward the arch and headwall above. Easy climbing on low angle rock will get you up to the arch. Clip a bugaboo and continue climbing straight up the bolt line to the cool headwall moves in the big huecos. Friable edges are abundant up to and around the headwall, and a light touch will yield better results than wild pulling. Top anchor is you in a hole, and maybe sling a block or two if you are diminutive or your partner is sketch and huge.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 17, 2007
Pitch 1 has one bolt on wall right of wide crack about 20' up from base and takes medium cams in crack before the angle eases off and you cross over to the left to stance and 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 - climb past 2 bolts and a knife blade before heading up the pocketed headwall and 3 more bolts.
The headwall provides many thin flakes for features that your fingers naturally want to wrap around. They are scary and based on the scared rock, it appears many have broken in the past. Yard-on at your own risk or reach for large huecos for vertical movement. Low angle climbing will get you to the summit where there are broken cracks (medium cams) and boulders to sling for an anchor. Walk off towards Laguna Prieta to reach base.