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BETA PHOTO: Jake on Truancy Man (5.6 to the left of Truancy), ...
Start at a tree growing out of a small ledge. Large hueco to the right of the tree about 12 feet up. Climb thin crimps and small holds until you gain a ledge 20 feet up. From the ledge, 40 feet or so of gorgeous crack and friendly holds lead you to good holds and some face climbing to a break in the lip of the cliff and a healthy tree jutting out from a small roof.
Immediately left of Piss Pot Ledge. You can't miss the start of the route, as it is marked by a tree and a large hueco and an obvious break in the cliff with a large tree at the top. Left end of Moon Wall. If you walk until the fire road gets close to the rock at the far end of Lower Meadow, you've gone too far.
First twenty feet are a little dicey. The large hueco will take a #6 Camalot or a Big Bro if you have it, but that's basically it until you get to the ledge. The crack offers plentiful pro of almost any size from 3 to .3. The last chunk of the route is slightly runout, but adequate protection can be found. Sling the large tree when you top out for an anchor. Fairly new webbing, new 6mm cord and two good lockers were the existing anchor on 5/27/12.
Jun 29, 2012
rating: 5.7 PG13
Good route. You can get a 0.5 Camalot in a nice pocket just below the hueco in the desciption for your first piece (I pre-placed this a'la trad stick clip on rappel from Truancy Man). The rest of the climb I protected with nuts (five or so) and a natural. choices for pro are many and bomber! There is an awesome chock stone about 3/4 of the way up where there is little other pro available.
Fresh nylon and a quadrupled cordalette with two NEW locking biners at the top for an anchor as of 6/28/2012.
|By Felix Duvallet|
Jul 16, 2012
I found ample protection, even at the start. The middle part is worthwhile!