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 ADVANCED
Little Eiger
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Is Our Children Learning?" S 
Abney 74 
Animaniac, The 
Black Haul T,TR 
Black Hole T 
Bonehead S 
Busch Gardens S 
Bush Administration S 
Closet Climber 
Conehead S 
Decider, The S 
Delusions of Grandeur S 
Disembowler, The 
Eiffel Tower S 
Eiger Direct S 
Eiger Sanction S 
Fire Face (Project) 
Fire in the Sky 
First Impressions S 
Footloose S 
Free Up The Weed S 
Green Zone, The S 
Headline T,S 
Herbal Essence S 
Ice Princess, The 
Misunderestimate S 
Naked Hedge, The S 
Natural Selection S 
Nordwand, The S 
Persistent Vegetative State S 
Radometer in the Red Zone S 
Smoke on the Water 
Tierra Del Fuego S 
Too! S 
Trouthead S 
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal 
Tsunami Of Charisma S 
Unknown TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Trouthead 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Trout
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,584
Submitted By: Drew Allan on Oct 9, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo for the left side of the Little Eiger@SEMICOL...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the fourth route to the right of the cave area/arete (Bonehead), which is located on the left (East) side of Little Eiger. The route begins at the original start to Headline, below the crack with a bolt to protect the face moves. Immediately above the first bolt is a new rust colored bolt that sends you up and right onto the Trouthead line.

We were all given the opportunity to name this route, so we did (see topo drawing). Clip the Headline first bolt, move up to the crack and clip the second bolt for Trouthead. Move up and right, away from the crack. Surmount a thin, crimpy bulge with a tricky clip at the fourth bolt. At the sixth bolt, prepare for the crux. Bulgy, sequential moves get you to easier terrain and the anchors. This new route is a previously unbolted line that is a nice addition to the wall. The new anchors on top of this section of the wall are very well done. You definitely need the topo to figure out what happened here, without it you will be lost.

Protection 

7 bolts to double bolt anchor.


Photos of Trouthead Slideshow Add Photo
Leeanne on Trouthead.
Leeanne on Trouthead.
Leeanne on Trouthead.
Leeanne on Trouthead.

Comments on Trouthead Add Comment
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By Patrick Brehm
Aug 26, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
Got rained off of this route today (08/26/14). Left my draws up on it. PLEASE DON'T TAKE THEM. I will be back for them in the morning (08/27/14).

Thanks!!

Also, this is a pretty fun route.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 9, 2003

Awkward crux on sharp holds...
By Smithers
Oct 12, 2003

Failed the flash at the crux but didn't stop, thanks to a little motivation from my belayer. Footwork's the ticket here. Have fun...go broncos
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 11, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I'm going to play the role of up-rater because I thought this climb had some rather thin moves and warrants a 5.11 rating. It is enjoyable. To locate the route, look at the hand-sketched topo. On that topo you will see an unnamed route between "Headline" and "Eiger Sanction". This is "Trouthead".
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Jun 5, 2006

I did this climb today after doing Eiger Sanction without knowing what it was. I would say it's slightly harder than ES for whatever that's worth. Being a chicken s*it about taking falls I would probably take a small piece to place below the first bulge as a fall there would not be real pleasant. In general I would say that the grades at Little Eiger tend to be stiffer (read more accurate) than some of the other areas in Clear Creek I've climbed. All in all a fairly fun climb, worth as many stars as ES. It has a couple of nice thin moves before you get to the second bulge and the crux will keep your attention.

Ralph Kolva
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 2, 2007

FWIW, at the 6th bolt, if you go right to the jugs, it feels 10c. If you go straight along the bolts, it feels 11-. Really fun route. Thanks, Ken!
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Aug 15, 2008

Neat line. Awkward (but fun) facey start, thin bulging crux, and a cool gaston at the overhang.
By robbie s
From: littleton
Sep 24, 2012

Great climb, tricky to onsight, fell a few times on the crux trying to stay with the bolts.... After getting the redpoint, following the bolts felt like -11, going out right felt like a solid 10...with good rests available before the crux, either way that you send it....
By goingUp
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route screams balance right from the get go!
The first bulge threw me, for being difficult to read during my onsight attempt, and then from being tired, so did the roof. However, the cruxes are well-protected, and the moves are there. Love the Eiger.