Troubled Dreams (ice)
||Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 475', Grade V
|Consensus: ||WI6 [details]|
|Page Views: ||893|
|Submitted By: ||Dave Rone on Mar 5, 2012|
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Kris Gorny pulling through the roof on the first p...
An excellent route in a spectacular setting! As with any ice route, conditions are widely variable from year to year, but it seems that Troubled Dreams, originally a mixed route, has been coming regularly over the past few years. Difficult to say where the crux will be. It could be pulling through the small roof on the first pitch or past the overhang at the start of pitch two. Mostly the route is just steep and continuous.
Scramble up to the base of the WI3 approach ice to a one-bolt belay, and continue to the base of the route.
Pitch 1, 60m: Climb through several vertical steps to the base of a curtain or pillar(s) pouring over a small roof. Climb over the roof and continue up steep ice to a belay on the left, under another overhang.
Pitch 2, 60m. From the belay, step right and climb vertical to slightly overhanging ice and continue up the steep headwall to a belay under a small overhang on the right.
Pitch 3, 25m. Step left from the belay and climb a steep column, that may be slightly overhanging at the top.
Troubled Dreams is in the center of The Trophy Wall. The first pitch is about 10m right of The Replicant, and it joins that route for the final two pitches. It is between The Sea of Vapours and The Terminator, the start will be obvious. Descent is from v-thread anchors.
Screws (med to long) protect the entire route. Take extra screws for belays, which may or may not have in-situ v-threads. Be sure to bring cord to create/backup anchors. The only bolt is at the base of the approach ice.