Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, 475 ft (144 m), 3 pitches, Grade V |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,577 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Dave Rone on Mar 5, 2012 |
Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose |
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Description
An excellent route in a spectacular setting! As with any ice route, conditions are widely variable from year to year, but it seems that Troubled Dreams, originally a mixed route, has been coming regularly over the past few years. Difficult to say where the crux will be. It could be pulling through the small roof on the first pitch or past the overhang at the start of pitch two. Mostly the route is just steep and continuous.
Scramble up to the base of the WI3 approach ice to a one-bolt belay, and continue to the base of the route.
Pitch 1, 60m: Climb through several vertical steps to the base of a curtain or pillar(s) pouring over a small roof. Climb over the roof and continue up steep ice to a belay on the left, under another overhang.
Pitch 2, 60m. From the belay, step right and climb vertical to slightly overhanging ice and continue up the steep headwall to a belay under a small overhang on the right.
Pitch 3, 25m. Step left from the belay and climb a steep column, that may be slightly overhanging at the top.
Scramble up to the base of the WI3 approach ice to a one-bolt belay, and continue to the base of the route.
Pitch 1, 60m: Climb through several vertical steps to the base of a curtain or pillar(s) pouring over a small roof. Climb over the roof and continue up steep ice to a belay on the left, under another overhang.
Pitch 2, 60m. From the belay, step right and climb vertical to slightly overhanging ice and continue up the steep headwall to a belay under a small overhang on the right.
Pitch 3, 25m. Step left from the belay and climb a steep column, that may be slightly overhanging at the top.
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