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Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T,TR 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 

Trouble And Strife 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: [C. Harrison & C. Lemke, 1981]
Page Views: 944
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is difficult to find by following the description in the guidebooks, but is obvious once you are there and see it. From the base of the [Lower] Peanuts Wall, below Your Basic Lieback and Star Wars, among others, look uphill and to your right. You will see a small tower of rock with a sharp lightning-bolt finger-crack. going up, to the right, then up again, with the crack getting wider as you climb upwards. It is a good lead or fun TR. Spots are thin and cruxy, but the route is not hard at its grade. The route is generally chalked.

Protection 

Standard rack with good nuts and small to medium TCUs at the crux.


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By tobias
From: CO
Jul 22, 2002

This is a short, but fun and demanding lead. Four pieces of pro will get you through it, which include a small wire (3?), [a couple of] medium and a large cam (not sure exact size). I wasn't psyched about the direction of the cam placement at the crux, about 15/18 ft up, so I stuck two in (a 6&7 [Trango size])... The climb goes straight up the finger crack, then right into an open, diagonal band (where you need the large cam). (There's also a variation that follows a crack from the left into the crux). Decent feet on the right when you're pushing past the band. Once through that traverse there's plenty of space to rest, then a pair or cracks on top that are easier to negotiate. This route is a bit like a 10a boulder problem sitting on top of a highball V1... fun!
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Jul 23, 2002

A #3.5 Camalot works good for protecting the band traverse; otherwise, one can climb the band unprotected and risk a swinging fall.
By Brent Roaten
From: Anchorage, AK
Sep 5, 2005

Fun linkup to Star Wars. #6 BD stopper, blue Alien, #2 Camalot, #3 Camalot for the traverse, and a #1 Camalot for the final paired cracks.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jun 8, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Finally! Always wondered what this one was called. Next time I won't stick all the gear where my fingers need to go...and I'll bring a #4 cam for the diagonal band. All and all--good fun! And it DOES make for a good link-up with Star Wars, to be sure.
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 21, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Awesome link up to Star Wars or any other climb up there. Didn't know what it was, but I am glad I did it!
By Tombo
From: Boulder
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I thought this climbed way harder then it looked and its grade, maybe it's because I'm short, old and fat. There isn't another 10b in the canyon that has shut me down like this one. I thought is was really technical down low with strenuous gear placements, to bomber hands if all the gas wasn't spent on the first 10 feet. Anyway, I'm going to loose 10 lbs and try again.

Anyone know the rating if you climb in from the left as opposed to straight up?
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Jun 18, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is a bomber 0.75 placement back in the crack to use if you don't have the #4. The spot for the #4 seemed kinda hollow anyhow.
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Plenty of gear on this one and the swing fall is no problem. WARNING GEAR BETA: Green Alien, red C3, red #1 C4 in initial creck, yellow #2 C4 / green #0.75 C4 at horizontal jug, blue #3 C4 past the hand jam (or other possibilities on traverse), red or yellow C4 in top cracks, optional green C4 protects the second above the moves. There's a good boulder thread for TR without going all the way up to the Star Wars ledge/tree.