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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,105
Submitted By: T. Moon on Apr 23, 2009
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Troy getting started on Trotsky.


The crux is in the first 20 feet -- thin moves with small gear for pro. Reach a corner (with relief) and continue on easier ground to a belay on a ledge. Exciting and fun. 5.7 is an "island rating," otherwise known as sandbag. Some say this feels as hard as 5.9.


Follow the normal approach to the South Wall. Proceed to the right until you reach the old stone stairs. The route is to main wall right at the stairs.


Small wires for the lower portion. Medium gear for the upper corner.

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By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 7, 2011

Yes, this is stout for the grade, but it's all there. An excellent small nut at 10 feet protects the crux moves to the bottom of the hanging corner where you will find very good holds. From this stance, look underneath the right side of the hanging corner for a bomber mid-sized cam placement, then just muscle up into the corner and enjoy easy stemming and jamming all the way to the top.

By Don MacKenzie
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

Rating: Definitely full value for the money at 5.7. The moves are all there, if a little thin, but the finicky gear increases the pump.

Gear: sound and adequate to protect against groundfall, but requires attention to detail. Take your time and downclimb for a rest if needed.