||Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||pitch one: Sean Cobourn and Eddie Medina. P2-3 Sean Cobourn, Brian Gulden and Cole Gulden Nov. 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||758|
|Submitted By: ||Sean Cobourn on Nov 18, 2010|
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putting up pitch one. Pretty much a plumb line u...
1. climb past three bolts to a run out easy section and head slightly left to optional belay at moss ledge shared with Redneck Cartel. 5.8
2. pull the roof at bolt just left of widest part of roof. Continue on run out easy ground to belay at base of headwall. 5.9
3. climb short but stout headwall to tree belay on summit. 5.10
near right side of Cereal Wall is a roof band kind of low down. Near midpoint of roof look for line of three bolts. Left of Mettle Detector, right of Redneck Cartel.
mostly bolts, but by no means a sport route. carry TCU's and a couple small cams.
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Nov 18, 2010
pitches one and two can be combined into 185 foot pitch.
By Mike Reardon
Jan 16, 2011
Good route, fun lip move. Bolts only where you need them, could not find any gear. Also, there seems to be two third pitch options; to the right with two bolts or let run out to one bolt. Its also possible to rap from the Angel Falls anchors on top of P2.
By Rob Rives
Sep 20, 2012
Linked the first two pitches of Redneck Cartel to the last pitch of this. Quite the headwall when climbing narrowly between two waterfalls! Pure NC style; protection appears only when the tears might start to form.