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Trooper Traverse 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 4,559
Submitted By: Christopher Marks on Nov 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Dainty little flower and polish high on the route.

Description 

The start of the route is up right from where the trail meets the rock.

P1. Scramble 50 feet up to the bottom of a vegetated gully. Slog up the gully for 100 feet, then traverse left out of the gully and into an alcove with a fixed belay (5.7).

P2. The crux is pulling through the roof/bulge starting the second pitch (5.8). Sail up the long ramp ~150 feet (5.6), up to large ledge with a 2 bolt belay.

P3. Start 50 feet, traverse left, and build belay.

P4. Two options for the last pitch: head straight up climbing flakes or trend right into a left-facing corner with wide hands to fist jamming up to another two bolt belay anchor (5.8). This way is sustained with an overhung feel to it as it leans out left.

Descent: rappel the route with 2 60m ropes in two to three raps, multiple anchor options as there are many rap anchors.


Protection 

Full rack no doubles really needed, but bring along that #4 for the last pitch.



Photos of Trooper Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Crux on the start of the 2nd pitch.
Crux on the start of the 2nd pitch.
At the top of Trooper Traverse.  Not sure if this is one of the "official" finishes, but the clouds were rolling in, so we were anxious to top out and rap off.
At the top of Trooper Traverse. Not sure if this ...
Starting up Trooper's Traverse.
Starting up Trooper's Traverse.
Summit shot.
Summit shot.
Comments on Trooper Traverse Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lynn S
Aug 28, 2009

Fun moderate to get off the ground. Pitch two crux move is good jamming through the bulge, fixed pin there to clip.

Last pitch left facing dihedral is cool, stay left of the orange lichen however. You can bail from the top of this pitch by climbing down to the right on a ramp and then back up to a large ledge on the right, exposed moves but easy 5.3.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Aug 29, 2009

Found some gear here on the third pitch. If it's yours, drop me a line.

By Alan Robertson
From: Denver, CO
Jun 15, 2010

My second couldn't clean a nut (red CAMP #5) on this route a couple weeks ago. If you can get it out, enjoy it. Or if you want to get it back to me, that would be cool, too.

We rapped off the big ledge with lots of bolts. Fun route. Be careful of climbers on sport routes below you though.

By K-Tanz
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 15, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome route. We did it in five pitches. The route becomes very inobvious at the end of pitch four (after the "50 foot traverse left"). We went to the obvious looking flake and dihedral system which started to the left of what we thought was our belay ledge, belaying off of a slung boulder to the left of the anchors in the middle of the traverse which was apparently wrong. Pro was tricky and the rock was choss. Stay away from that flake system and you should be all good. Easy to bail from anywhere on the route with two ropes. I would most definitely recommend this climb if you go the right way at the final pitch.

By JoshC
Oct 4, 2011

I'm interested in free soloing this route. Can anyone tell me if there is a walk off from the top?

By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There is an obvious walk-off.

Do this in four pitches. Scramble up from the base to a ledge about 30 feet up. Belay from here. (1) Climb past the first bolts, through a series of overhangs, and build an anchor whenever convenient. (2) Continue up to the "party ledge" and use the first set of bolts. (3) Traverse 40 feet left, past another pair of bolts, and build an anchor (#3 & #4) in crack on your right. (4) Final pitch stays left of an orange streak of lichen, along an obvious series of flakes, and steps left, then continues upward over obvious and easy though slightly runout rock. Belay from gear anchor at the top. The rappel bolts are 25 feet to your right.

The first rap will take you back to first set of anchors on the party ledge. Be careful on this rap - you have to traverse quite a bit. The next rap takes you down to the first anchors (the ones you skipped earlier). Two 60m ropes barely got me down... in fact, I had to downclimb a little bit. SKETCH! The last rap is simple.

By Frogmen83
Jul 30, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route with an alpine feel.
Pitch 1: hiked up the grassy 3rd class section to rock to start instead of starting on ground. Pitch 1 was the least enjoyable.
Pitch 2: you need a 70m to reach the pitch 3 belay described in the description. We had a 60m and I had to simul-climb up to the 5.8 crux, so the leader could reach the bolt anchors. Great pitch!
Pitch 3: left 50 feet, poor belay protection in right corner crack with loose blocks but a good stance.
Pitch 4: led the right variation leaning hand\fist layback crack to 2 bolt anchor. Fun pitch.

By Garrick Steele
From: Golden, CO
Jul 28, 2014

Two 60 meter ropes did not get me down in two raps, bring two 70 meter ropes or expect to do a third rap with a single 60 meter rope.