Trooper Traverse 5.8 PG13
| 3,196 page views
Good page? (2 likes)   |
At the top of Trooper Traverse. Not sure if this ...
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Start of route is up right from where the trail meets the rock.
P1. Scramble 50 feet up to the bottom of a vegetated gully. Slog up the gully for 100 ft then traverse left out of the gully and into an alcove with a fixed belay (5.7).
P2. Crux is pulling through the roof/bulge starting the second pitch (5.8). Sail up the long ramp ~150 feet (5.6), up to large ledge, 2 bolt belay.
P3. Start 50 feet, traverse left, and build belay.
P4. Two options for the last pitch, head straight up climbing flakes or trend right into a left-facing corner with wide hands to fist jamming up to another two bolt belay anchor (5.8). This way is sustained with an overhung feel to it as it leans out left.
Descent: Rappel the route with 2 60m ropes in two raps, multiple anchor options as there are many rap anchors.
Protection Full rack no doubles really needed, but bring along that #4 for the last pitch.
Dainty little flower and polish high on the route.
|
Starting up Trooper's Traverse.
|
Crux on the start of the 2nd pitch.
|
Summit shot.
| | |
| Comments on Trooper Traverse |
|
By Lynn S
Aug 28, 2009
| Fun moderate to get off the ground. Pitch two crux move is good jamming through the bulge, fixed pin there to clip.
Last pitch left facing dihedral is cool, stay left of the orange lichen however. You can bail from the top of this pitch by climbing down to the right on a ramp and then back up to a large ledge on the right, exposed moves but easy 5.3. |
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Aug 29, 2009
| Found some gear here on the third pitch. If it's yours, drop me a line. |
By Alan Robertson
From: Denver, CO
Jun 15, 2010
| My second couldn't clean a nut (red CAMP #5) on this route a couple weeks ago. If you can get it out, enjoy it. Or if you want to get it back to me, that would be cool, too.
We rapped off the big ledge with lots of bolts. Fun route. Be careful of climbers on sport routes below you though. |
By K-Tanz
Jun 15, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Awesome route. We did it in five pitches. The route becomes very inobvious at the end of pitch four (after the "50 foot traverse left"). We went to the obvious looking flake and dihedral system which started to the left of what we thought was our belay ledge, belaying off of a slung boulder to the left of the anchors in the middle of the traverse which was apparently wrong. Pro was tricky and the rock was choss. Stay away from that flake system and you should be all good. Easy to bail from anywhere on the route with two ropes. I would most definitely recommend this climb if you go the right way at the final pitch. |
By JoshC
Oct 4, 2011
| I'm interested in free soloing this route. Can anyone tell me if there is a walk off from the top? |
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.8
| There is an obvious walk-off.
Do this in four pitches. Scramble up from the base to a ledge about 30 feet up. Belay from here. (1) Climb past the first bolts, through a series of overhangs, and build an anchor whenever convenient. (2) Continue up to the "party ledge" and use the first set of bolts. (3) Traverse 40 feet left, past another pair of bolts, and build an anchor (#3 & #4) in crack on your right. (4) Final pitch stays left of an orange streak of lichen, along an obvious series of flakes, and steps left, then continues upward over obvious and easy though slightly runout rock. Belay from gear anchor at the top. The rappel bolts are 25 feet to your right.
The first rap will take you back to first set of anchors on the party ledge. Be careful on this rap - you have to traverse quite a bit. The next rap takes you down to the first anchors (the ones you skipped earlier). Two 60m ropes barely got me down... in fact, I had to downclimb a little bit. SKETCH! The last rap is simple. |
|
RSS Feed
1 more...
Slideshow
