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The Dark Side
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Trolling For Holds 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Oct 8, 2001

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Description 

This route is located on a blunt arete about half way from the right side of the wall to the QOB. There is a mossy gully to its direct right and the climbing follows the 6 bolts on the arete. There is an obvious crack to the left of this line near the last 3 bolts (looking from the ground up). The climbing starts off pretty hard from the ground, (mid 10) and is hard to spot holds (look a little left). From here gain a good rest at the second bolt and then tackle the upper section. The guidebook says there are 4 Goldshuts and 1 Petzl hanger, but there are actually 2 Petzl hangers, so bring 8 draws. This route seemed harder than 10c, but perhaps I just wasn't warmed up and have to see what other people say. Cheers.

Protection 

6 bolts (4 Goldshuts/ 2 store boughts) - 2 bolt anchor.


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By Aaron Zumpf
Mar 24, 2012

Great route! Super solid rock that keeps you thinking! Stay to the right @ the bottom. Save a little for the top!!