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Amazing climb. A must do! Start by climbing the easy section of rock to reach a stance on a large flake below the overhanging crack. Make a few reachy/stemming moves to gain the wider portion of crack above. Place some good gear here and find some tight hand jams to reach a good horizontal (crux). From here, there's still a move or two to reach the shuts.
This is the overhanging crack just to the right of the classic Toxic Hueco.
Cams and Stoppers under 1.5", mostly small stuff. A single #2 camalot may be useful. Shuts.
Sending Trojans on a not-so-cool June day- so good...
Gettin' up in the crack after the slightly sketchy...
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fixed nut at the base of the crack looks pretty ragged. I would recommend backing it up with a 0.3 (blue) c4. Gun it a few moves to a decent stem rest (far right) and place a purple c3. Orange master cam or tcu at top of corner before crux. 0.5 c4 up top. Amazing line!