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Toxic Hueco Area
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Trojans 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed, 1987
Page Views: 1,070
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 16, 2009
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Hiiiiiiiya!

Description 

Amazing climb. A must do! Start by climbing the easy section of rock to reach a stance on a large flake below the overhanging crack. Make a few reachy/stemming moves to gain the wider portion of crack above. Place some good gear here and find some tight hand jams to reach a good horizontal (crux). From here, there's still a move or two to reach the shuts.


Location 

This is the overhanging crack just to the right of the classic Toxic Hueco.


Protection 

Cams and Stoppers under 1.5", mostly small stuff. A single #2 camalot may be useful. Shuts.



Photos of Trojans Slideshow Add Photo
Sending Trojans on a not-so-cool June day- so good!
Sending Trojans on a not-so-cool June day- so good...
Gettin' up in the crack after the slightly sketchy beginning blocks
Gettin' up in the crack after the slightly sketchy...
trojans
trojans
Comments on Trojans Add Comment
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By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Fixed nut at the base of the crack looks pretty ragged. I would recommend backing it up with a 0.3 (blue) c4. Gun it a few moves to a decent stem rest (far right) and place a purple c3. Orange master cam or tcu at top of corner before crux. 0.5 c4 up top. Amazing line!