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The Trojan Bunny Buttress is a large and complex formation on the South side of SSV canyon and across the creek from the parking. Most of the rock faces North, however, routes exist on West, East, and North facing parts. The crag proper can be said to begin at a large blank looking wall that faces due East. It sweeps West all the way to a West facing slab called Leatherface that is really part of the same large formation. The rock is typical SSV canyon granite and is well featured with big roofs, edges, flakes, and cracks. While many single pitch routes exist on TBB, the crag is really two pitches high and a few two pitch routes exist as well. Several older trad routes follow obvious crack systems. Also, the TBB slab in the middle of the formation and the Leatherface slab at the West end both have older sport routes that need a little protection in addition to the bolts. Since early in the year 2000 about 15 new sport lines have gone in. These take some of the obvious features of the crag, pushing through the roof systems, aretes, and the largely untouched middle section. Many of these routes are hard, with nothing easier than 5.11b. Most of the pitches have been Red Pointed as of this writing. However, some terrific projects are still in the works. The upper pitches of the two pitch routes are on some of the finest granite I have climbed in the SSV.
The Trojan Bunny Buttresses sits 7.2 miles up the SSV canyon via highway 7. A large and generous parking area is right below, but on the opposite side of the stream and right off the road. Two approaches have been used to access the crag. On the left is an easily negotiated talus field with a cairn trail marked through it. The left approach will deposit you exactly at the East end of the crag. Alternatively, it is possible to head up the gully directly across from the parking. This will jog left to easy terrain half way up the gully. This approach deposits you at the TBB slab itself. Both approaches entail crossing the stream. However, since all five Tyrollean Traverses that were installed at the TBB have been chopped, you are pretty much on your own for getting across the stream. I have found that 100 feet down stream from the edge of the parking there is a good section for wading across.
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Browse More Classics in Trojan Bunny Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trojan Bunny Buttress:
The Bucket List 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
The Bruise Collector 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Temptation Arete 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Featured Route For Trojan Bunny Buttress
Temptation Arete 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a CO : Lyons : ... : Trojan Bunny Buttress
The Temptation Arete is an amazing line with a bit of agonizing history. It has been called, "perhaps the best line in the South Saint Vrain Canyon". The climbing moves were originally freed by rope solo (RW) on jugs and the bolts placed accordingly. My own first lead was very scary. Subsequent attempts by Greg Purnell, Alan Nelson, and Mark Rolofson (all very strong climbers and much better climbers than myself) led to the consensus demand for re-bolting, with new placements described in detail...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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