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Tatooine
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Force, The S 
Hyperspace S 
Jawa Jam S 
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 
Leia's Leash S 
Midichlorophobia S 
Millennium Falcon S 
Phantom Menace, The S 
Scum and Villainy S 
Spaceballs S 
Star Destroyer S 
That's Not A Lightsaber S 
This Is A Lightsaber! S 
Triumphal Arch S 

Triumphal Arch 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 633
Submitted By: Darren Knezek on Apr 25, 2009

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Some really fun moves for a 10c

Description 

This route starts on the left side of the wall at the base of the huge right-leaning arch. Climb up to the first bolt and start climbing the underside of the huge arch. Around the 3rd bolt is a tricky little crux getting over a bulge from here on the arch gets a little more narrow and you can pinch it as you make upward progress. After a few more bolts the arch is a traverse to the right more than upward progression. Clip one of the anchors on Millennium Falcon and keep going right past a bolt and then clip one of the anchors on Hyperspace. Again keep going right and up until you end underneath the huge roof on the anchors of The Force. It's only about 75 feet down so you should have some rope left on a 60-meter.
You'll probably only fall on this route if you slip or can't control the barndoor effect. Quite a unique feature! You can see it all the way from the parking lot, so you can point it out to your family and friends and brag how bad ass it was.


Location 

The left side of Tatooine. Just climb the arch, you can't miss it!


Protection 

13 bolts plus anchors.



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By Darren Knezek
May 10, 2009

By Tyler Slack
From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Jun 24, 2011

Think twice before climbing this after your buddy lead it for you. You'll take a whipper and there is an angry wall to your right ready to meet you. If it's not your head it'll be your foot or an elbow that it will claim. I'm just glad it wasn't me. Consider this route a lead climb only.

By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Jul 11, 2011

Related advice to what Tyler said: as you are cleaning the route on your way down, I would leave the last clip, pull the rope through, and then just climb up and get it, otherwise there is potential to take that same big swing.
This may be common sense for some of you, but i really didn't expect the swing to be as bad as it was, so consider yourself warned.

By Preston Marsh
Jul 22, 2011

To back up tyler on this one. THIS IS A LEAD CLIMB ONLY WITH MAJOR POTENTIAL TO SLAM INTO THE WALL ON RIGHT AT HIGH SPEEDS. DO NOT TOP ROPE. When you clean route clip yourself to the rope with a quick draw so you do not swing. Other than that its a really fun route. No real crux just one spot with a balance issue.

By tenesmus
Jul 23, 2011

YOU'RE GONNA DIIIIEEEEE!!!!!

By Thomas Holmes
From: Utah
Sep 29, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Top roping this route is fine.

Have the lead climber leave the draws and climb on the other end of the rope, clean the draws as you go...