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Campi Qui Pugui
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Triste Pesadilla S 

Triste Pesadilla 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009

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High up on the excellent "Triste Pesadilla".

Description 

Although not the most remarkable-looking route, Triste Pesadilla offers brilliant moves on stellar, albeit sharp, rock. Constantly challenging, with several boulder problem cruxes and a pumpy finish. This route gets shade at 2pm, earlier than any other routes at Campi.

Begin up the sharp slab to reach the ultra-high first bolt. Chalk up, then fire over the rooflet to an awkward traverse up & right along the diagonal crack. Make desperate moves back left across the brown streak to a slabby scoop & a no hands rest below a sickle-shaped flake. Work up the flake to a gnarly pod below the bulge. Sharp, positive holds lead over dark stone to the anchor.


Location 

At the far left end of Campi is a ledge that hosts five routes. This is the third route from the left.


Protection 

Bolts to 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.



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Resting just after the crux.
Resting just after the crux.
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