Triste Pesadilla  5.12c

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Type:  Sport, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

High up on the excellent "Triste Pesadilla".

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Description 

Although not the most remarkable-looking route, Triste Pesadilla offers brilliant moves on stellar, albeit sharp, rock. Constantly challenging, with several boulder problem cruxes and a pumpy finish. This route gets shade at 2pm, earlier than any other routes at Campi.

Begin up the sharp slab to reach the ultra-high first bolt. Chalk up, then fire over the rooflet to an awkward traverse up & right along the diagonal crack. Make desperate moves back left across the brown streak to a slabby scoop & a no hands rest below a sickle-shaped flake. Work up the flake to a gnarly pod below the bulge. Sharp, positive holds lead over dark stone to the anchor.

Location 

At the far left end of Campi is a ledge that hosts five routes. This is the third route from the left.

Protection 

Bolts to 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.

Photos of Triste Pesadilla Slideshow

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Resting just after the crux.