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From: Portland, OR
Oct 16, 2014
Myself and a crew from Sierra Nevada College used to frequent this area in 2002-4. We cleaned and 'developed' many problems, certainly some had already been done, but I'd like to know more about the history of bouldering at this little, now insanely obscure area (due to all the bouldering development in Tahoe).
Walking up the road the first short wide boulder one comes to had two problems we enjoyed working. The first we called Optimus Prime, starting low on a positive rail on the left side of the boulder, working pinches and slopers to little dishes on the slab above and a nice rock over top out.
The other started in the middle of the face facing the road, on two opposing and positive incut crimps, slap to sloping lip and figure out how to top out. The third on this boulder I spent a few of my early years working, start as for the previously mentioned boulder, then slap to the lip and traverse into Optimus Prime, sometimes on slopers, sometimes dropping below the lip on other holds, very hard for me at the time (V4/5?) and I named it Bigfoot as I watched the sun set and sipped on the identically named beverage by myself.
Just behind this first boulder is a nice, now lichen covered face, with an amazing problem that starts on the lower right side on a shelf if I recall, works left on a great sequence of edges, to a big deadpoint or dyno to a sweet rail, then top-out. Our Japanese friend Tai Chi named it 'Butterfly'. Before he sent it we called it "No Ninjas Allowed", because he, despite his climbing prowess, couldn't pull it off for some reason!
Moving uphill behind this boulder was a really cool steep narrow face, harder, can't remember much about it. I hope these problems continue to get visits from fledgling SNC climbers, as well as the routes above. There are other great problems higher up near Trippy Rock proper, a sick slick underclinging crimpy rad thing just to the left of the crag, cool stuff up behind the crag (highball V0/1 just above the easy face with the 5.4/5.5 on it). Great traverses and easier stuff just before reaching the talus below the crag, look left. On one of these, there is a tiny cave, start super low on slopers, slap left, throw a heel up right, more slapping, throw to the lip. We called it "Match me a Bowl" as you matched on the slopey bowl shaped hold on the right, or something like that.
So what's up, what's the history here?