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Gong Show Wall
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Tripping Old Birds 
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Wages of Skin 

Tripping Old Birds 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: James Lombard (2002)
Page Views: 485
Submitted By: J. Albers on Jul 2, 2010
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Description 

Almost a full pitch of sustained 5.9/5.10- edging and smearing. This is a really nice route, but your feet will hurt by the end if you don't either move fast or wear stiff shoes.


Location 

Locate the obvious Gong Show roof that is the namesake of the crag (of the two huge roofs in Euan's crag pictures for the area, the Gong Show roof is the left most roof; the right side roof is directly above He She, Sideshow, etc.). To the left of the roof is a long, orange face; this is the route. To approach the route, walk underneath the Gong Show roof and around a corner until you reach a 3rd/4th class right facing corner/ramp (about approx. 50 feet to the left of the roof; NOT the right facing corner directly below the Gong Show roof). Ascend the corner to a ledge that is below and slightly to the left of the route. You can place some finger to hand sized cams for a belay if you are so inclined. The Gong Show roof will be 15-25 feet to your right. Climb the obvious, bolted orange face above.


Protection 

14 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Rappel with two ropes (a single 70 m will NOT reach).



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