|The V Buttress
Excellent climbing. Expect some typical Cathedral spice... you can't pull through on gear.
P1: Start as for FOF. Climb a 5.9 hand crack for 15’ until it turns into a water groove at a horizontal. Layback the water groove (5.11) past two bolts to a second, more prominent horizontal (gear), mantle up onto a slab past the horizontal and continue to follow the disappearing water groove past two bolts (crux at second bolt). Step up and right at second bolt to a flake system and a small cam placement. Continue up and left to another bolt. Climb straight up to a ledge, another bolt and another hard mantle. Run it out on easy terrain to a 2 bolt anchor on a large ledge. (5.11+) 120’
P2: Friction climb straight up past 3 bolts (5.10b). Follow dirty but easy rock the top.
A variation has been climbed to this pitch at a similar grade. Step right after the first bolt into a flake. Protect with micro cams and step back left to the third bolt (5.10a R). 80’
Begin at a small stance 200’ below the access ledge.
Cams from .3 to a #1. Doubles of #’s .4, .75
Dave entering 5.11 lay back on the FA
mid lay back
The last hard move before an easy run out to the a...
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Dec 22, 2012