Triple S 5.8+
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My favorite move.
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Description Shipley's Shivering Shimmy is the original name. Perhaps the name was a tad to long to stick. Triple S is one of the best routes at Seneca. Stem, stem, and stem some more until your left leg is completely exhausted; hopefully you'll have reached a rest by then. Oh yeah; it's sandbagged, even for Seneca.
Location Triple S is the large corner where the Wall of a Thousand Pitons connects with the west face. One can rap from the top or continue up several other routes.
Protection More Cowbell!!! Passive gear (fist size or so in hexes) seems to be the preferred gear for this route. Seriously.
Me leading up this classic line.
| Shane leading S.S.S.
| BETA PHOTO: Stem it out or get shut down.
| BETA PHOTO: This climb eats up protection. It can be strange t...
| Matt on Triple S
| Triple S. Great rest spot!!
| BETA PHOTO: Tanya on Triple S
| BETA PHOTO: Gene on Triple S!
| Nick leading Triple S with a nice stem
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By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jan 19, 2007 rating: 5.8
| It's all about stemming. Seems very reasonable within the grade if you stem it. Also, I like the climbing, but it's not a 4-star at Seneca -- too short. |
By Rick M From: Annapolis, Maryland Jul 19, 2007
| it's worthy of 4 stars and a tough lead for the grade |
By Charlie Perry From: Fort Collins Dec 26, 2007
| First real big fall I ever took. Probably in early eighties fell about sixty feet. |
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Dec 26, 2007 rating: 5.8+
| 60 feet huh? Must have not placed from the crux to the anchors then fell, wow. |
By C Runyan From: Santa Barbara, CA Jul 21, 2008
| No question, this is a Seneca classic. |
By Joe Dietrick Feb 6, 2009
| Super route. Crack and face climb that will get your blood going. |
By dinglestyle From: Catonsville, MD Feb 20, 2009 rating: 5.9
| Easy 5.9 rating when compared to other climbs in the area like Tomato, The Burn and Alcoa. In my experience as a climber whenever I see a plus symbol it means sandbag rating Especially any east coast route that was established pre 5.10 era. This is classic Seneca at it’s best still, a test piece in the mind of many weekend warriors. |
By Ross Purnell From: Palmyra Jun 1, 2009
| This is the most sustained pitch of 5.8 climbing I have ever done. It's like the forces of Nature collaborated to create this especially for climbers. Really amazing. |
By oldbull From: Laguna Beach, CA Jul 14, 2009
| Ahh...fond memories of this climb. Absolutely stellar!!! Not friendly for those with bad technique, but certainly a gift that keeps on giving. Your calves will be scorching by the time you hit the top. Lots of gear. After climbing another 10+ years, it does strike me that sandbag may be a good description of this climb. I can't think of too many 8's that are more consistent or harder. |
By Mike Anderson From: Dayton, OH Oct 19, 2010
| I had no idea quartzite could get this polished. |
By Caleb Efta From: Golden, CO Oct 28, 2010 rating: 5.9+
| Good climb. New to trad, so it was a hard climb for me. It sucks in the gear though. I used 7 or 8 nuts and only 2 cams. Consistent too, no real break in the climbing. |
By Terri Payne Brink Apr 15, 2011
| It's been a while... The Gendarme was still standing when I did this route! I have now climbed all over the country, Josh, Yosemite, Red Rocks, the list goes on. But Triple S is still THE route, best classic route I have ever climbed, don't miss it! Back when I climbed it it was a 5.7. Dang that was a hard 7! |
By shirley surely May 13, 2012
| So much stemming that my feet were shaking! Chimney and stemming and pushing! yeah! |
By climbinbob Sep 6, 2012
| I led this, again, on my 56th birthday. It seems to get harder every year, as the rock is just getting more and more polished. You can place gear everywhere, though; and, what a great belay stance at the top!! |
By Dan Mathews Oct 24, 2012 rating: 5.9-
| Love this climb. Stemming and even some chimney moves for rests are the key. Solid protection is everywhere, so don't let it scare you off. Some thinly protected Seneca 5.7s are more intimidating than this. It doesn't get much better. |
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