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South Peak - West Face
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Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
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Triple S T 
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:

Triple S 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 12,920
Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Jan 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (134)
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My favorite move.


Shipley's Shivering Shimmy is the original name. Perhaps the name was a tad to long to stick. Triple S is one of the best routes at Seneca. Stem, stem, and stem some more until your left leg is completely exhausted; hopefully you'll have reached a rest by then.

Oh yeah; it's sandbagged, even for Seneca.


Triple S is the large corner where the Wall of a Thousand Pitons connects with the west face. One can rap from the top or continue up several other routes.


More Cowbell!!! Passive gear (fist size or so in hexes) seems to be the preferred gear for this route. Seriously.

Photos of Triple S Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Triple S.  Great rest spot!!
Triple S. Great rest spot!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Stem it out or get shut down.
BETA PHOTO: Stem it out or get shut down.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gene on Triple S!
BETA PHOTO: Gene on Triple S!
Rock Climbing Photo: On the Triple S corner.  The Marshall's Madness cr...
On the Triple S corner. The Marshall's Madness cr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on Triple S
Matt on Triple S
Rock Climbing Photo: Triple S
Triple S
Rock Climbing Photo: Shane leading S.S.S.
Shane leading S.S.S.
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway through Triple S.
Midway through Triple S.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tanya on Triple S
BETA PHOTO: Tanya on Triple S
Rock Climbing Photo: This climb eats up protection. It can be strange t...
BETA PHOTO: This climb eats up protection. It can be strange t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading up this classic line.
Me leading up this classic line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway through Triple S.  Photo on rappel.
Midway through Triple S. Photo on rappel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick leading Triple S with a nice stem
Nick leading Triple S with a nice stem
Rock Climbing Photo: Panorama of the route
BETA PHOTO: Panorama of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: triple s
triple s
Rock Climbing Photo: plenty of relaxing rests from stemming if you have...
plenty of relaxing rests from stemming if you have...

Comments on Triple S Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 8, 2015
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It's all about stemming. Seems very reasonable within the grade if you stem it. Also, I like the climbing, but it's not a 4-star at Seneca -- too short.
By Rick M
From: Annapolis, Maryland
Jul 19, 2007

it's worthy of 4 stars and a tough lead for the grade
By Charlie Perry
Dec 26, 2007

First real big fall I ever took. Probably in early eighties fell about sixty feet.
By Ladd
Dec 26, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

60 feet huh? Must have not placed from the crux to the anchors then fell, wow.
By C Runyan
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2008

No question, this is a Seneca classic.
By Joe Dietrick
Feb 6, 2009

Super route. Crack and face climb that will get your blood going.
By dinglestyle
From: Catonsville, MD
Feb 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Easy 5.9 rating when compared to other climbs in the area like Tomato, The Burn and Alcoa. In my experience as a climber whenever I see a plus symbol it means sandbag rating Especially any east coast route that was established pre 5.10 era. This is classic Seneca at itÂ’s best still, a test piece in the mind of many weekend warriors.
By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Jun 1, 2009

This is the most sustained pitch of 5.8 climbing I have ever done. It's like the forces of Nature collaborated to create this especially for climbers. Really amazing.
By oldbull
From: Laguna Beach, CA
Jul 14, 2009

Ahh...fond memories of this climb. Absolutely stellar!!! Not friendly for those with bad technique, but certainly a gift that keeps on giving. Your calves will be scorching by the time you hit the top. Lots of gear. After climbing another 10+ years, it does strike me that sandbag may be a good description of this climb. I can't think of too many 8's that are more consistent or harder.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 19, 2010

I had no idea quartzite could get this polished.
By Befta
From: Golden, CO
Oct 28, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good climb. New to trad, so it was a hard climb for me. It sucks in the gear though. I used 7 or 8 nuts and only 2 cams.

Consistent too, no real break in the climbing.
By Terri Payne Brink
Apr 15, 2011

It's been a while... The Gendarme was still standing when I did this route! I have now climbed all over the country, Josh, Yosemite, Red Rocks, the list goes on. But Triple S is still THE route, best classic route I have ever climbed, don't miss it! Back when I climbed it it was a 5.7. Dang that was a hard 7!
By shirley surely
May 13, 2012

So much stemming that my feet were shaking! Chimney and stemming and pushing! yeah!
By climbinbob
Sep 6, 2012

I led this, again, on my 56th birthday. It seems to get harder every year, as the rock is just getting more and more polished. You can place gear everywhere, though; and, what a great belay stance at the top!!
By Dan Mathews
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Love this climb. Stemming and even some chimney moves for rests are the key. Solid protection is everywhere, so don't let it scare you off. Some thinly protected Seneca 5.7s are more intimidating than this. It doesn't get much better.
By BrianWS
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nothing on this climb is harder than 5.8... but not much on it is any easier than 5.8, either. Very sustained.
By Emil Briggs
Nov 12, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I loved the route and while it wasn't a gimme I didn't think it was particularly sandbagged. As long as you have decent stem technique that is. If you don't it's going to feel really hard.
By Henry AB
Sep 8, 2015

Awesome route! There are lots of opportunities for chimney moves, and they provide good rests. I mostly placed small to medium cams, nothing larger than a #3 C4.

There was an accident on this climb in 2001. publications.americanalpineclu...

A climber fell and caught his foot on a chockstone. That seems like a hazard on blocky corner climbs like Triple S. Be careful!

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