|Rock Springs Buttress
Two interesting pitches on variable rock, generally good but with a few shabby sections on Pitch 1. Don't be deterred, it's a very worthy route and careful climbing will avoid trouble with the suspicious stuff.
Stemming through the cruxy start of the second pitch will make it a little less strenuous. The next two roofs ease off, but it's not a gimme.
The route is located left of Boxcar Arete and Tolle Rt., all three on the smaller buttress west of the main wall. It ascends a crack system immediately right of the Monkeyflower bolts, skirting leftwards under a series of three major roofs. Park the belay ending the first pitch under the third big roof. Oddly, the name actually is derived from the upcoming series of three roofs on the second pitch. A photo with Monkeyflower gives a good view of pitch 2.
Rap with 2 60m ropes from the bolted anchor at the ledge system ending the route.
Stoppers and cams through a #4. Pro is good. There is a bolted station at the top. There is one fixed pin at the top of the first pitch.
|By Norm Larson|
From: Wilson, Wy.
Jul 11, 2010
I used to work for JHMG in the 70's and 80's and lived in a tent cabin out at the base of Apres Vous. Rock Springs buttress was our guides favorite place to work and also crag on our days off. We all did a lot of routes there BITD. complete with tower 3 stops whenever we wanted. I believe that Jim Donini, Chuck Satterfield, and I (Norm Larson) were the first to climb this route in 1978. I led the first pitch, Donini led the roof pitch. I asked all the other guides if they knew of a previous ascent and nobody knew of one.It's Wyoming though so who knows. And back then nobody really cared.
|By Charlie Jonas|
From: Jackson, Wyoming
4 days ago
A good variation is to climb monkey flower as the first pitch (especially if your partner doesn't lead trad). Its requires you to traverse back to the crack on some delicate face moves, but I was able to get a decent placement with a red c3 to protect the 2.0 potential fall.