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Animal World
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Instinct S 
Animal Magnetism S 
Animal Riots Activist S 
Animation aka Jaycene's Dance S 
Automatic Choke T,TR 
Balance, The T,S 
Beast Food Left S 
Beast Food Right S 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 
Blockhead S 
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 
Closer To God S 
Cold Snap T 
Crack Corner T 
Cujo Tranquilizer 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 
Evolution Revolution S 
Familiar Strangers T 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 
Fifth World, The T,S 
Free Willie S 
Global Gorilla S 
Gull Whackers T 
Hands of Destiny S 
Hope and Pray T,S 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 
Isn't Life Strange S 
Joint Venture S 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 
Lazy Day S 
Lovely to See You T,S 
Melancholy Man S 
New Beginnings S 
Nice To Be Here S 
Old Dihedral T 
Piles of Trials S 
Pit Bull Prowser S 
Reversal Roof S 
Ride My See-saw S 
Split Personality S 
Strange Times T,S 
Sundog S 
Talking Out Of Turn S 
Threshold Of A Dream S 
Triple Play T,S 
Tuesday Afternoon S 
Unfamiliar Strangers S 
We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

Triple Play 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Marga Powell, Peter Dillon, Ron Olsen, 3/22/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,369
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 24, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Animal World.

Crac...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Three people on the first ascent, and three crux sections...a triple play. Varied, interesting climbing all the way up.

Climb straight up a narrowing crack to a slot. Work up the slot and step left to a ledge. Climb a short left-facing corner and crank up right to a slab. Continue to an overhang, climb up left onto a pedestal, and surmount the overhang. Continue more easily to the anchor.

A harder variation (10d?) turns the overhang a bit more to the right.


Location 

Start at a hand crack between Crack Corner and Animal Riots Activist, at the left side of Animal World. These are the first routes you see when you approach the crag.


Protection 

3 or 4 cams from 1/4" to 2", then 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. We used a #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot, green Alien, and red Alien on the first ascent.



Photos of Triple Play Slideshow Add Photo
Resting below the crux.
Resting below the crux.
At the second bolt.
At the second bolt.
Comments on Triple Play Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 21, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

How do you rate it? Well, the climb is a step off of a 5.7 much of the way, and I could force the line right for hard moves (probably 5.11) or stem back and left for rest (far easier). By staying more or less on route as I could figure it and choosing the most interesting yet solid climbing up without getting silly eliminating holds and stems, the grade I checked in at was probably 5.9.

By khoa
From: 303
Jul 9, 2009

Very contrived.

By Alan Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I led this climb and ended up stepping/reaching over to the 5.7 crack a little too often. On top rope, actually climbing the bolt line I thought it was significantly harder than Is It Ready Yet Moe, which comes in at 5.10a on this site. So, to me, it was at least 5.10c, if not slightly harder, if you stayed more to the right of the bolt line.

By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Jul 10, 2010

Interesting, I had no idea that there are supposedly 2 distinct lines here.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 10, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Contrived, yet fun. I thought the moves through the slot were great and the harder moves up high can be made easier by stepping easily left. So, just combine the two routes wherever it feels natural for a decent route all in all.

By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Jul 5, 2013

Ditto on the contrived character of the line. It's hard to resist the stems leftmost of the time. We used a #3.0, 3.5, and 00 Friend for the bottom part.

By Robots and Dinosaurs
Jul 2, 2014

I did this without gear and didn't really see the need for it. Don't blow the first clip, but apart from that, the runouts weren't bad?