Triple Play 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Marga Powell, Peter Dillon, Ron Olsen, 3/22/09 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Mar 24, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Animal World.
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Description Three people on the first ascent, and three crux sections...a triple play. Varied, interesting climbing all the way up.
Climb straight up a narrowing crack to a slot. Work up the slot and step left to a ledge. Climb a short left-facing corner and crank up right to a slab. Continue to an overhang, climb up left onto a pedestal, and surmount the overhang. Continue more easily to the anchor.
A harder variation (10d?) turns the overhang a bit more to the right.
Location Start at a hand crack between Crack Corner and Animal Riots Activist, at the left side of Animal World. These are the first routes you see when you approach the crag.
Protection 3 or 4 cams from 1/4" to 2", then 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. We used a #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot, green Alien, and red Alien on the first ascent.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 21, 2009
rating: 5.9
| How do you rate it? Well, the climb is a step off of a 5.7 much of the way, and I could force the line right for hard moves (probably 5.11) or stem back and left for rest (far easier). By staying more or less on route as I could figure it and choosing the most interesting yet solid climbing up without getting silly eliminating holds and stems, the grade I checked in at was probably 5.9. |
By khoa
From: 303
Jul 9, 2009
| Very contrived. |
By Alan Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d
| I led this climb and ended up stepping/reaching over to the 5.7 crack a little to often. On top rope, actually climbing the bolt line I thought it was significantly harder than Is It Ready Yet Moe, which comes in at 5.10a on this site. So, to me, it was at least 5.10c, if not slightly harder, if you stayed more to the right of the bolt line. |
By Brent Apgar
Jul 10, 2010
| Interesting, I had no idea that there are supposedly 2 distinct lines here. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 10, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Contrived, yet fun. I thought the moves through the slot were great and the harder moves up high can be made easier by stepping easily left. So, just combine the two routes wherever it feels natural for a decent route all in all. |
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