2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Three people on the first ascent, and three crux sections...a triple play. Varied, interesting climbing all the way up.
Climb straight up a narrowing crack to a slot. Work up the slot and step left to a ledge. Climb a short left-facing corner and crank up right to a slab. Continue to an overhang, climb up left onto a pedestal, and surmount the overhang. Continue more easily to the anchor.
A harder variation (10d?) turns the overhang a bit more to the right.
Start at a hand crack between Crack Corner and Animal Riots Activist, at the left side of Animal World. These are the first routes you see when you approach the crag.
3 or 4 cams from 1/4" to 2", then 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. We used a #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot, green Alien, and red Alien on the first ascent.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 21, 2009 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
How do you rate it? Well, the climb is a step off of a 5.7 much of the way, and I could force the line right for hard moves (probably 5.11) or stem back and left for rest (far easier). By staying more or less on route as I could figure it and choosing the most interesting yet solid climbing up without getting silly eliminating holds and stems, the grade I checked in at was probably 5.9.
By Alan Butler From: Boulder, CO Apr 14, 2010 rating: 5.10c/d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
I led this climb and ended up stepping/reaching over to the 5.7 crack a little to often. On top rope, actually climbing the bolt line I thought it was significantly harder than Is It Ready Yet Moe, which comes in at 5.10a on this site. So, to me, it was at least 5.10c, if not slightly harder, if you stayed more to the right of the bolt line.
Interesting, I had no idea that there are supposedly 2 distinct lines here.
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Aug 10, 2012 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Contrived, yet fun. I thought the moves through the slot were great and the harder moves up high can be made easier by stepping easily left. So, just combine the two routes wherever it feels natural for a decent route all in all.