Add Photo Add Comment Printer View
Stem up the gully to a bushy ledge, then head right to the vertical crack. Climb to the alcove (optional belay) and then finish straight up with the crack.
This climb would grab another star if the brush bashing was eliminated.
Descent via rappel or off the east (climbers right) side via the path/scramble. NOTE: route is longer than 30 meters/100ft! Be careful on rappel!
The gear is quite wide above the alcove.
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 10, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I have yet to find a route up this formation that feels anything like 5.6 or 5.7. By S.B. standards, the easiest line feels like solid 5.8 to me. The 5.6 suggested for this route in the Edwards guide is laughable.
|By Brett Brotherton|
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 22, 2008
I agree with Matthew this is a sandbag as far as I can tell. After the first crack I had trouble finding an easy way to traverse over or a good gear placement at the top of the crack right before the traverse. Then belayed at the start of what I thought was the next crack made it over first overhang. Fun and not too bad. Then get to next offwidth/squeeze chimney/slight overhang and struggled to get through that. At one point almost had it but my helmet got stuck. So gave up and ended up doing what appears to be slacker which i thought was a definitely a solid 5.8. Anyone know if that chimney/crack to the right was part of triple overhang? I hope not if so I must have been missing something. It was the first crack pretty wide with ledge then narrows to the right of the crescent and there were bolts running up the face between crescent and this crack. Is this the route or still not far enough right? Also I brought a number 5 camalot and found it useful.
|By Scott Scharfenberg|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 29, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Led this route on Saturday 7/27/2013 in one pitch, as there were no belay anchors and I didn't want to build one. About 3/4 of the way up there is a short section of overhanging, flared, slightly chossy offwidth, which I believe to be the 3rd overhang. There is nothing about that which would cause me to give this a 5.6 rating.
Between that, the unexpectedly stiff overhangs, and the bushwhacking, this route was a real challenge for someone who's led fewer than 5 trad climbs (me) and was expecting a quick romp up a 5.6. What was originally planned as the warmup became the only climb we did that day.
That being said, I had a blast. Will definitely repeat this route if I can convince someone to come out again. I'm absolutely nuts though--I doubt many will share my enthusiasm.
I highly recommend bringing some large pro. I had two #3 C4's with me and was wishing I'd had a few pieces that were larger.
The bees are still there btw. They're quite friendly--I hung out with 'em for a minute while I scoped out the traverse and looked for a non-existent set of belay anchors. Very peaceful little workers. It was neat.