Area between Starship Enterprise/ Waimea and the Hinterlands.
The trails at the base are suffering from some serious erosion issues due to their location on the mountain. Tread lightly!
The left(lower) end of Triple Corners holds most of the harder climbs whereas, the right side holds many 5.8-5.10 climbs that are worthwhile.
It isn't uncommon for beginners turned away from crowds at Vadar and Jimmy Cliff to make their way down to this area.
In the middle there is a 4th class gully(don't attempt when wet). Atop the gully you will find six or so quality climbs that would make for some nice pictures.
From The Starship Enterprise crag, walk to the right side and up, following the stone steps, getting you to the lower left side. From Waimea, take the trail down below the China Beach area which drops you into the upper right Tripple Corners at the route Sunbowl.
This route has great jamming and laybacking leading up to an interesting squeeze chimney. Mark Sprague cleaned it a bit and put a 2 bolt anchor at the top of the chimney. I went out and led it knocking down some big loose blocks in the chimney in the process. Start by laying back a big flake at the base of the crack. Make a strong move up to a good hold and a bit of a stance. From here you start jamming about 10 feet of crack from wide hands to fist size. Mantel out of the crack and head left in...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
I was at the top of the gully the other day climbing skunks, and noticed a few routes left of it that I couldnt seem to find here. There is a line of bolts going straight up the arete around the corner to the left of skunks (looks hard!), and there is a monster chimney even further left that had some bolts. Probably these are in the guidebook, but it would be cool if someone familiar with them added the info here too.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England May 3, 2010
The first route you mention, up the arete, is a 12d, Wild Blue Yonder, put up by Ward Smith. I haven't been up in that area lately, so can't give a better description. Both of the routes are listed in the new guide book
For such a prominent arete, I've NEVER seen Wild Blue Yonder touched. Does anyone have any stories to share about that climb? Is it an overhanging face climb or does it stay true to the arete? Any beta? :)