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Trip to Italy in May
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By Ryaan Braastad
From San Francisco, California
Feb 17, 2014
I am traveling to Italy in May. Currently the plan is to spend time in Florence, Rome and Cinque Terre.

I would love to climb for a few days while I'm there. Does anyone know any good tour guides and locations to climb?

Thank you!

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By Ian Cavanaugh
Feb 17, 2014
I was there a few years ago and spent a weekend at a town north of cinque terre. the town was called Muzzerone. There was a refugio just outside of the town that we stayed at. The owner, i believe a guide, had a ton of information. The climbing was amazing. 200m sea side cliffs, single pitch all around, good restaurants in town and a few places to get groceries. We didn't have a car and were able to get there by train and bus. good luck and have fun. there is a lot of climbing there, do your research and get after. enjoy

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By Ryaan Braastad
From San Francisco, California
Feb 17, 2014
Any idea what that place was called where you found the guide?

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By Ian Cavanaugh
Feb 18, 2014
we didn't get a guide, he was just the refugio owner. I believe he might have been available for guiding though. all of our information was found online. unfortunately this was in 2008 and can not recall any names.

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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Feb 18, 2014
There's this:
mountainproject.com/v/muzzeron...

Looks cool!

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By Mcclurev
Feb 26, 2014
Keep in mind when you are looking for guides and locations, that Muzzerone or (Cinque Terre) is in the Liguria Region. Muzzerone is reached from La Spezia (you can take the train to Cinque Terre from La Spezia as well)

There are few good sites in Tuscany italiaoutdoors.com/rock-climb-... but it it depends on your level.

Near Rome the best place to climb south of the city and called Sperlonga.

In Italy climbing is fairly main stream and there are very few climbing guides at local areas, you can find very detailed guide books, and you do not have to beat through the brush to find most sites. You best option if you are looking for a guide is to contact a local climbing gym.

May is a great season to visit that area.

Best of luck.

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By David Coley
From UK
Feb 26, 2014
What type of climbing do you want to do?

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By bean.uiuc
Mar 6, 2014
I will be in Florence from May 1-9, and I have 1-8 free for climbing. I've been working on finding a climbing partner. If you're around Florence during that time, maybe we can work something out? I will bring any necessary climbing equipment (trad, sport). Unfortunately I won't have a car to get around. I'm willing to climb anything from easy up to YDS 5.12+.

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By Ryaan Braastad
From San Francisco, California
Mar 10, 2014
@david - We are interested in sport (there are two of us)

@bean - It looks like it may make sense for us to meet up. We are experienced gym climbers (up to 5.11a-d), but only have a few days outside. How should we connect?

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By Nick Votto
Mar 10, 2014
Bolton, VT
Too bad I'll be there most of April, not the best locations for climbing but I know there's some sport in Toscana if you're there. If you can get up to Finale Ligure there's some great climbing there....even better if you can grab a cheap round trip to Cagliari, Sardegna and head up to Cala Gonone, its an incredible place with TONS of climbing, long multi pitch adventures to climbing sick routes above the Mediterranean. Also the Dolomiti obviously, there's an area Val di Fassa that's great....and has cheap little huts for rent too, heard they've had a heavy snow year there though.

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By bean.uiuc
Mar 10, 2014
@Ryaan

How were you planning on getting around? It sounds like a car might be necessary to get to many of the climbing spots around Tuscany. I'll arrive at my hotel (hotelfortezza.com/location.htm... in the evening on May 1. We could meet up there or at some public transportation hub, depending on how you're getting around. It may also be possible to meet near to the planned climbing area, if the public transportation getting there and back is reasonable.

Are you thinking the mentioned Muzzerone? That looks like it could be a good option, and only about 2hrs by car, or maybe 4 or so by public trans from Florence.

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By Nick Votto
Mar 10, 2014
Bolton, VT
If you want the most time possible, and ease of getting around, definitely rent a car, it's not too expensive and very worth it. On my dozen+ trips to Italia I have had a rental or access to a car every time (except for certain city stretches). You'll be happy for it.

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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Mar 10, 2014
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gates <br />(i.e. 10 pitches to the tram station)
FWIW the trails between towns in Cinque Terre are not passible. As for places to climb, Finale is a bit further up the coast:

climb-europe.com/RockClimbingI...

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By Frederik Terres Neuves Bxl
Apr 4, 2014
Interesting to find this post.
I'll also be in Tuscany in the beginning of May (5-12/05), landing in Florence, and also looking for a climbing partner.

My level varies anywhere between 5A (5.7) and 6B+ (5.10D) in the gym. On the rocks I haven't tested my actual limits yet as I'm still getting used to lead climbing. (I'm a fast learner though :-) ) Best I've done so far outside was a 5C (5.9) (during my 2nd trip outside last weekend, and hoping to raise the bar to 6A/5.10 tomorrow)

I'm open to renting a car and sharing the costs, same goes for lodging if wanted/needed. I bring my own material with me too. I have a 70m rope (if longer needed, let me know).

@Ryaan, I'm looking to mostly do training that week so for me it would make a lot of sense to hook up with the group that seems to be forming, but of course it's up to you guys if you feel like having a less experienced climber tagging along ;-)

About me: likeable, usually entertaining, positive mindset with a healthy dose of not taking myself too seriously, trustworthy, honest, Belgian (thus able to bring along Belgian beer), polyglot, ...

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Apr 4, 2014
El Chorro
There is A LOT of very good climbing between Florence and Cinque Terre. Everything from sport to big mountain routes. I've got an excellent English guidebook if anyone wants to buy one on the cheap. It covers a large area of Tuscany.

Anyone feel free to PM me if you want the book or have any questions.

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By Henry Braun
May 4, 2014
I'll be heading to Italy soon and looking to climb May 10-13. I climb mostly 5.11s and am generally down to work 5.12s too, but I will only have shoes and a harness. I'll be PM'ing a few of you, most likely; maybe we work something out!

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