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Trip Report: First go at the Diamond.

Original Post
Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250

Heading up to the Casual Route on the Diamond. What are you glad you knew, or wish you did, when you first ventured?

Some things are already set: our meet time* and approach route. Anticipating crowds, projectiles, and North Chimney dodge ball, we are doing the Chasm raps. Beyond that...please spray!

* PS to other Saturday Diamond climbers: We're heading up at 5. You don't need an early start to get there first. Relax and sleep in a little! Really.

Aaron Martinuzzi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,485

Hey Shawn -

Just had my first trip up via the Casual yesterday - it was a blast.

First of all, if you do change your mind and climb the North Chimney (which is easy and not that loose), I would recommend simuling it and linking the Chimney to the top of D1 pillar (top of P1 of Casual Route).

But, I did two things yesterday that pissed me off. First, regarding the 7R traverse, it's really really easy to find, and I did find it. However, I was drawn 'up' the wall but some tat on 2 pins about 1/2 of the way through and kept trending up and left, which is off route. So, I got to dick around up and down-climbing on 5.8/9 face for like 25 minutes - a total waste. When you hit the traverse, you pretty much just go straight left - stay on the jugs.

The second thing was really dumb. At the top of the 5.8 corner, my partner belayed me at one of the little ledges, and not the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge. This mistake I blame the topo for just as much as myself - right off this belay was a chimney, formed by a right-facing and a left-facing corner, with a little roof exit and a finger crack above with fixed wires. Sounds sort of like the Casual Route's crux pitch, right? Well, it wasn't. It was an awful, mossy, wide, shitty, 9++, off-hands, off-fists choss slot that took crap for gear. I spent like 50 feet in this until I looked about 6 feet to my left and saw the good climbing. Gillett's topo doesn't indicate any features immediately right of the line of the Casual Route (indicated as two opposing corners, a chimney, and the finger crack). Rossiter's topo (which I had at home), however, does show this shit chimney I was in, and more clearly indicates that it isn't the route.

So, aside from those two things, which probably make me sound like a huge noob, and made me feel like an absolute ass yesterday, the route was sweet. Maybe I was having a bit of an off day and no one else in their right mind would make these mistakes, but I'm willing to sacrifice my pride and try to make sure other people don't do those things - mostly that shit choss slot - god that thing sucked, and made me feel like an amateur.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

shawn,

if you are doing the chasm raps, be careful pulling your ropes: ie loose rock and getting ropes stuck. other than than, crush it!

TradByron Andrews · · Uxbridge, MA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 5

5 am at the parking lot or North Chimney? North Chimney, I hope--it's a long walk in, at least for flatlanders like myself. I always try to give myself more time than I think I need in the high country, and it usually turns out to be just about right. North Chimney is lousy, but easy except near the top. We soloed most of it, and I THINK you want to bear right at the top to get to easier ground--we did not and it was kinda sucky. 7R traverse: stick with the jugs, definitely, and it won't be too bad (unless it's wet or something). Try to get the 5.8 handcrack pitch--it is one of the best pitches anywhere. Be psyched--it's an awesome route!

Devan Johnson · · RFV · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 525

We were up there yesterday as well, can't ask for better weather right now! Looked like 4 parties on the Casual route, so an uber early start might be advisable.

Northwest Corner · · Bend · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,505

Yeah, leaving the parking lot at 5 would be way late, unless you have legs and lungs like Roger Briggs or something. 2 AM is standard parking lot start to make sure you top out by noon. You want to top out by 1 PM at the latest. Running down the North Face in a lightning storm is no fun. You could always luck out and have perfect weather all day, but I wouldn't count on it, plus the Diamond gets dang cold after the sun leaves it, which is about 11:30 AM, if I remember correctly. If you are doing the Chasm View Raps at 5 AM, you should be fine. Best of luck!

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

I would not waste time going up, then coming down the raps.
just go up the north chim. it is easy! chas. raps are a waste of
time, unless you are doing a winter trip, and need to avoid avy. . .
start up the slabs to the left side of the chim. then move into
the chim. stay on the left side (mostly) zig-zagging your way up
avoiding the loose stuff (obvious) i exit left at the top, and
onto broadway. this is prob. the only part you may want to really
stop and belay, otherwise it is a easy simul. climb, or solo. . .
oh, and yes, if others are on broadway (if you know people are up before you) then continue up chim. on to pillar and straight up
to the traverse. the pillar is easy climbing(as easy as chimney.)
then you will be above all the peeps. on broadway racking up for
the route you are already a pitch up!
start early, coming from the flats, and unless you are a fast hiker,
i would figure 4 hrs to the north chim. at a casual pace.
it is nice to be first in the chim. but it is not that bad (unless you have those rock knocking gumbies above you.) another option is the crack of delight to the left(5.7) to keep you out of the chimney.
that takes more time, but is fun, and you learn the lower raps. i would use that if the chim. is full of rock knockers/etc.

good luck, weather looks splitter for sat, no chance of storms, but then again, longs makes its own weather!?

Devan Johnson · · RFV · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 525

Keen is spot on- the sun leaves the wall at just before noon right now, and that seems to make the climbing harder.

Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250

Thanks very much for thoughts and input so far!

And...5:00 am was a diversionary joke. Our day will start rather earlier than that. But I don't want to prompt the other parties to get up earlier!

Aaron, thanks for the warnings. Didn't make you sound like a noob at all. Sounds like you haven't been on that route before. I'll watch for those places!

Aaron Martinuzzi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,485
Cor wrote:oh, and yes, if others are on broadway (if you know people are up before you) then continue up chim. on to pillar and straight up to the traverse. the pillar is easy climbing(as easy as chimney.) then you will be above all the peeps. on broadway racking up for the route you are already a pitch up! start early, coming from the flats, and unless you are a fast hiker, i would figure 4 hrs to the north chim. at a casual pace.
ditto. as far as timing goes, my partner and I, in reasonably good alpine shape and hiking fairly quickly, made it to the base of the chimney in 3 hours (this includes one 7 minute snack break and one 15 minute stop to rack up at the SW end of chasm lake). probably took 1.5 hours, probably less, to simul it to the top of D1, and we did pass a party on the way.

and thanks for the props, Shawn. normally i'm proud of my route-finding skills and was sort of hard on myself yesterday for wasting time. have fun out there!
Kat A · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 510

Shawn, just mark your initials with chalk at the base of the Casual Route to reserve it for Saturday. Everyone will be very understanding. :) mountainproject.com/v/gener…

I've only done the Diamond once (tomorrow will be the second time if all goes well) but here's what I learned. 1. Have some shoes with traction to cross the snow to the base of the N. Chimney. Though I hear there is a fixed line there right now which should help. 2. This is my opinion on the N. Chimney - I HATE soloing but we will start off soloing it tomorrow and if we find the need, we'll rope up. I think the ropes from people simuling the chimney pull more rocks down on those below them. 3. As others said, bring that extra layer, as it does get cold once you're out of the sun. 4. If you rap the Diamond, look at Gillett's topo to note the next anchor position - some are slightly left, some slightly right as I recall. We found the anchors ok, but I hear some people had difficulties seeing them - apparently one station is around a corner. 5. Have fun! :)

Edit - ignore my N. Chimney comments since you're doing the Chasm raps. There was a post on MP recently about extending those raps with some cordelette which would make pulling your ropes easier.

Aaron Voreis · · Edina, MN · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 140

Hey folks.. If anybody does the chasm view raps, which suck, please bring up about 8 feet of 1" webbing, two quick links, and two rap rings to fix up the 1st rap station. There is a free runner and locker there for you. We were greeted by total crap the other day. I can send pics if you'd like. Cheers!

Charles Vernon · · Colorado megalopolis · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,655

Hi Shawn,

I was up there last Monday, and there were about 10 parties--about 5 on the Casual Route. So my advice is to bring a topo of the wall and a heavier rack, including a #4 Camalot, and be prepared to jump on something a bit harder, like Pervertical or D7-Forrest Finish, if necessary. No matter how early you get up, a party of 3 might climb the Chimney in the dark, someone else might be bivying on Broadway, etc. The alternate routes are, obviously, harder, but have very good pro, and are, IMO, worth struggling up rather than waiting and freezing for hours at semi-hanging belays on Casual.

Good luck & have fun!

Charles

Shane Zentner · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 205

Shawn,
I'm concerned about your late start at 500AM. We soloed the North Chimney and overshot the start of the first pitch. Pitch three was streaming with water. Did not complete the route because of time and weather conditions so we rapped from the ramp.

Good luck.

Devan Johnson · · RFV · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 525

Good advice by Charles Vernon, but I would add that both Pervertical and Forest finish are significantly more difficult, so plan accordingly.

Aaron Martinuzzi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,485

Regarding Shane's advice, when I was out there yesterday the wall was chilly, but the entire climb was dry. P3 starts with a deep slot that was moist in the back, but that's not where you want to be anyway.

Lauren Fallsoffrocks · · A beach with climbing · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 260

Are you rapping the route or summiting? I haven't done the rap so if you rap, post up details of how it goes.

Robert 560 · · The Land of the Lost · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 570

Well, how did it go................?

Jon Cheifitz · · Superior/Lafayette, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 90

I was in the diamond area today, hiking, looking at my guide book, taking photos. It was a Mad House. I hope it went well for you.

J

Jim Gloeckler · · Denver, Colo. · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 25

I would put my money on success of the party. Pun intended. Well done in advance!

Mark Roth · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 14,062

Shawn? still alive?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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