Stiff and wild, this climb makes the gymnastics associated with sport climbing seem like oversprayed hype. This climb defines Vedauwoo in a way; beautiful, creative, and out of this world. A must do for visiting hardpeople. Open your mind and puzzle your way up this beautiful and crazy overhanging monstrosity. Like nothing else out there. Intellectually stimulating sequence. Do it!
Find Public Whipping Post and continue up the gully above, staying to the left as mush as possible. Skirt the wall around to the right of Blaster Junior (The face with the handcrack up the middle of it and the huge boulder sitting above it, up and left from the top of the gully) and up another higher gully filled with big, stacked boulders. You will find this beautiful beast lurking above you to the left. Has a great spectator platform so you can get an intimate view of your friends in action. Short enough to make you think you can hike it.
#5 Zeros up to #5 Friend. The seam through the roof at the beginning swallows up small cams, despite it's appearance. Gear anchor up top. Walk off.
|By Bryan Gilmore|
From: Your Mama
Jun 28, 2008
Definitely a benchmark for the grade, if you can't do this then don't say you're a 5.12 climber.
May 30, 2010
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Casual. Well maybe not casual but....