Trinity Right 5.12a
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Getting ready to throw to the hand jam. I love thi...
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Description The route goes up the right facing flake to under the big roof, and then traverses right via a wild undercling to the anchors. Going straight up is 13a Center Trinity, with a few bolts.
Location In the Green Adjective Gully after passing Looney Tunes and before Wheels
Protection Small wires, 1.5 sets of cams from purple TCU to #2 Camalot.
James protecting the starting moves
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| Comments on Trinity Right |
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By tenesmus Aug 13, 2008
| This is far more accessable than I thought it would be. The start has 10 feet of easy climbing with an easy traverse to your first gear, helping you get off the ground and in a very safe fall zone. Then there is pretty much gear every body length or less and most of it is from good stances. I can't believe I let so much time go before trying it. Far easier mentally for me than looney tunes is. Once you get the mindset and learn the body tension its really straightforward. very classic. |
By Leroy From: Cottonwood Heights Sep 9, 2008
| Anybody ever had problems with bats on this route? It seems like there's a whole passel of them up in Trinity Left, and they're quite loud. Guess 12a is hard enough that I don't want to fight off bats while I'm fighting for gear. |
By bheller From: SL UT Jun 23, 2009
| A LCC handbag at the grade of 12a. Easier than Mother of Pearl. |
By John Steiger May 27, 2012
| I made the mistake in thinking this was going to be soft. Maybe it is if you grab the chains or weight them before finishing the climbing. I’ll go solid 12a, maybe even a b, if you persevere and make the desperate face move past the chains to the stance. No bats during our visit. By the way, the first free ascent of the pitch as described above was Steve Hong, Karen Budding, and Steve Carruthers, 1985 (FA w/aid Carruthers and Gary Olsen, 1985). There’s also a second pitch, reportedly 11c (FA: Carruthers, 1989) (didn’t try it). |
By Spencer Weiler From: SLC, UT May 31, 2012
| I found the entry moves into the corner to be the hardest and headiest as you only have once piece of gear protecting you at that point. 2 good rests can be found inbetween hard sections, though placing the gear was very strenuous as the crack flares quite a bit most of the way up the initial corner. 2 fixed nuts are found on route, though both are old and rusted they held my falls. I enjoyed the karate chop hand jam move under the roof and macarena dance moves underneath to the chains. Supremo! |
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