Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas:
North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete.
South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
P1 - this is nice ballsy run-out face climbing to the right onto the arete for a .11+ crux. Sweet! Belay on a face under an obvious splitter crack, 130'.
P2 - climb splitter for about 120', belay on ledge with boulder on it, .11+.
P3 - climb .10 hands for 120' to a crack switch, belay on arete.
P4 - this is the crux! Climb up and through vertical to slightly overhanging 30' peg crack, .12a crux is at the bolt. Then turn into the right crack system of Kachina Wings, 150'.
P5 - climb up big, right-facing corner system for about 170'. The .10 crux is a o.w. layback about 10' over the gear if any...not that tough. Belay under roof or climb the final 40' of easy 5.7-.8 to the terrace. Traverse terrace to the overlook. Drink beers!
This is the best crack route I have tried thus far, but it is shorter than "Stoned Oven"!!! This is sustained at the grade!
Use the same approach of easy climbing or free solo to ledge of Journey Home. Look for fixed nut on wall to the right of Journey and bolts. You must surmount a 5' boulder at the start.
Triple or quadruple fingers, double hands, one #4 cam, nuts, 8-10 runners and 4 draws. 70m rope.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Jun 9, 2009 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+E5 6a R
Yep, sick route for sure. This was my first trip to the Black! Climbed it with Jay on second day down there. Great sustained climbing the entire way. Better have your head screwed on right for the first pitch. Jay sent it in style! Nice one dude.
You can up the quality of the top-out by bypassing Katchina Wing's final offwidth on a left leaning 5.10+ hand finger crack (see topo). This puts you near the top of Journey home and all but the last hundred feet to the exit ramp remain pretty clean.
By Bryan Gilmore From: Your Mama May 15, 2012 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+E5 6a R
The left-angling 5.10 crack instead of the OW is really cool and deposits you on a great belay ledge. Thanks, CK, for the recommendation. I don't know about you, but I don't think the heads on P1 would hold an (insert Cartman's voice here) Ethi-nopian.