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Tricouni Nail/Cerberus
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Cerberus 
East Face Rotert/Fowler Route 

Tricouni Nail/Cerberus 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 1, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: One of the most photographed simul-raps in the Nee...

Description 

The Tricouni Nail is the distinctive three-headed spire in the middle of the Ten Pins cluster. Tricouni Nail is the original name for this spire, though Royal Robbins renamed it Cerberus when he made the first ascent.

This is one of the most classic climbs in the Black Hills, and the descent is a notorious though completely secure simulrappel from the top. No anchors exist on the summit, so the rope must be layed in between two of the horns with one climber rappeling off each side simultaneously. Be sure to maintain good communication with your partner while doing this because you end on opposite sides of the spire. Local climbers harvest booty almost daily from people unfamiliar with this technique.


Getting There 

The spire is hard to miss with its three heads. Scramble up into the middle of the spires, and climb the side facing Queen Pin(the larger mass of spires away from the Cathedral Spires).


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tricouni Nail/Cerberus:
Cerberus   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
East Face Rotert/Fowler Route   5.10d R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Browse More Classics in Tricouni Nail/Cerberus

Featured Route For Tricouni Nail/Cerberus
Chad Berger on the crux moves of Cerberus. John Wachter Belaying. Photo by Nathan Kutcher. Taken Sept 2001

Cerberus 5.8  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Tricouni Nail/Cerberus
This is one of the best routes in the Needles, and is a must do for any climber. The climbing is fantastic, the summit is very cool, and the simulrap is exhilarating.From the gully between Tricouni Nail and Queen Pin, look for a few old fixed pins on a steep face. Climb past the drilled pins to a good stance on a shoulder. Sling the shoulder and move up and left towards a ring bolt, placing a medium stopper in a seam along the way to avoid a groudfall. Traverse right at the ringbolt to anoth...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD


Photos of Tricouni Nail/Cerberus Slideshow Add Photo
Dean Allison and Gary Schmidt enjoying the summit

Dean Allison and Gary Schmidt enjoying the summit

Me and Jon start the simul-rap, while my buddy from Veaudawoo (Vince) gets a taste of standing at the top of his first Needles summit, all during Pinfest 07

Me and Jon start the simul-rap, while my buddy fro...

Chuck at the last bolt, where it gets really steep with big crystals.

Chuck at the last bolt, where it gets really steep...

Keen and Tara topping out on The Tricouni Nail

Keen and Tara topping out on The Tricouni Nail

Super Pin & Tricouni Climbers near summits

Super Pin & Tricouni Climbers near summits

Robin Bickford just cruised up the thing. I kept telling her to put in more gear but she didn't listen. I guess that's nothing new

Robin Bickford just cruised up the thing. I kept t...

Crew from Boulder, CO on 7/5/09. Photo taken from the top of 'Tee the Ball'.

Crew from Boulder, CO on 7/5/09. Photo taken from ...

On Tricouni Nail, 2005.

On Tricouni Nail, 2005.

Belaying Krista up, summer 2005.

Belaying Krista up, summer 2005.

Needles Rap!  2005.

Needles Rap! 2005.

View of the nail from superpin

View of the nail from superpin


Comments on Tricouni Nail/Cerberus Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2006

Note that the notch to the West is the better for the rope when Simul-raping becasue it will pull more easily and eat less of your rope. This is the right side when facing down-hill.