Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Tricouni Nail/Cerberus

Select Route:
Cerberus T 
East Face Rotert/Fowler Route T 

Tricouni Nail/Cerberus Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 5,064
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 1, 2002
Forecast:
This Afternoon

75° | 56°
Wednesday

74° | 51°
Thursday

68° | 51°
Friday

70° | 54°
Saturday

75° | 57°
Sunday

79° | 56°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
Keen and Tara topping out on The Tricouni Nail

Description 

The Tricouni Nail is the distinctive three-headed spire in the middle of the Ten Pins cluster. Tricouni Nail is the original name for this spire, though Royal Robbins renamed it Cerberus when he made the first ascent.

This is one of the most classic climbs in the Black Hills, and the descent is a notorious though completely secure simulrappel from the top. No anchors exist on the summit, so the rope must be layed in between two of the horns with one climber rappeling off each side simultaneously. Be sure to maintain good communication with your partner while doing this because you end on opposite sides of the spire. Local climbers harvest booty almost daily from people unfamiliar with this technique.

Getting There 

The spire is hard to miss with its three heads. Scramble up into the middle of the spires, and climb the side facing Queen Pin(the larger mass of spires away from the Cathedral Spires).

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.5 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Tricouni Nail/Cerberus

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Tricouni Nail/Cerberus:
Cerberus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
East Face Rotert/Fowler Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Tricouni Nail/Cerberus

Featured Route For Tricouni Nail/Cerberus
Rock Climbing Photo: Chad Berger on the crux moves of Cerberus. John Wa...

Cerberus 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Tricouni Nail/Cerberus
This is one of the best routes in the Needles, and is a must do for any climber. The climbing is fantastic, the summit is very cool, and the simulrap is exhilarating.From the gully between Tricouni Nail and Queen Pin, look for a few old fixed pins on a steep face. Climb past the drilled pins to a good stance on a shoulder. Sling the shoulder and move up and left towards a ring bolt, placing a medium stopper in a seam along the way to avoid a groudfall. Traverse right at the ringbolt to anoth...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Tricouni Nail/Cerberus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Super Pin & Tricouni Climbers near summits
Super Pin & Tricouni Climbers near summits
Rock Climbing Photo: Dean Allison and Gary Schmidt enjoying the summit
Dean Allison and Gary Schmidt enjoying the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Crew from Boulder, CO on 7/5/09. Photo taken from ...
Crew from Boulder, CO on 7/5/09. Photo taken from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: from afar
from afar
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber nearing the top of the Tricouni Nail, phot...
Climber nearing the top of the Tricouni Nail, phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Robin Bickford just cruised up the thing. I kept t...
Robin Bickford just cruised up the thing. I kept t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at Tricouni's summit.
Looking down at Tricouni's summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the nail from superpin
View of the nail from superpin
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck at the last bolt, where it gets really steep...
Chuck at the last bolt, where it gets really steep...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me and Jon start the simul-rap, while my buddy fro...
Me and Jon start the simul-rap, while my buddy fro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Needles Rap!  2005.
Needles Rap! 2005.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kasi cleaning up the Tricouni Nail.
Kasi cleaning up the Tricouni Nail.
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the most photographed simul-raps in the Nee...
BETA PHOTO: One of the most photographed simul-raps in the Nee...
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying Krista up, summer 2005.
Belaying Krista up, summer 2005.
Rock Climbing Photo: On Tricouni Nail, 2005.
On Tricouni Nail, 2005.
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit pose
Summit pose

Comments on Tricouni Nail/Cerberus Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2006
Note that the notch to the West is the better for the rope when Simul-raping becasue it will pull more easily and eat less of your rope. This is the right side when facing down-hill.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!