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Tricouni Nail/Cerberus

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Cerberus T 
East Face Rotert/Fowler Route T 

Tricouni Nail/Cerberus  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 1, 2002
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Keen and Tara topping out on The Tricouni Nail

Description 

The Tricouni Nail is the distinctive three-headed spire in the middle of the Ten Pins cluster. Tricouni Nail is the original name for this spire, though Royal Robbins renamed it Cerberus when he made the first ascent.

This is one of the most classic climbs in the Black Hills, and the descent is a notorious though completely secure simulrappel from the top. No anchors exist on the summit, so the rope must be layed in between two of the horns with one climber rappeling off each side simultaneously. Be sure to maintain good communication with your partner while doing this because you end on opposite sides of the spire. Local climbers harvest booty almost daily from people unfamiliar with this technique.

Getting There 

The spire is hard to miss with its three heads. Scramble up into the middle of the spires, and climb the side facing Queen Pin(the larger mass of spires away from the Cathedral Spires).

Climbing Season


2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tricouni Nail/Cerberus:
Cerberus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
East Face Rotert/Fowler Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Tricouni Nail/Cerberus

Featured Route For Tricouni Nail/Cerberus
Chad Berger on the crux moves of Cerberus. John Wachter Belaying. Photo by Nathan Kutcher. Taken Sept 2001

Cerberus 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Tricouni Nail/Cerberus
This is one of the best routes in the Needles, and is a must do for any climber. The climbing is fantastic, the summit is very cool, and the simulrap is exhilarating.From the gully between Tricouni Nail and Queen Pin, look for a few old fixed pins on a steep face. Climb past the drilled pins to a good stance on a shoulder. Sling the shoulder and move up and left towards a ring bolt, placing a medium stopper in a seam along the way to avoid a groudfall. Traverse right at the ringbolt to anoth...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Tricouni Nail/Cerberus Slideshow Add Photo
Super Pin & Tricouni Climbers near summits
Super Pin & Tricouni Climbers near summits
Dean Allison and Gary Schmidt enjoying the summit
Dean Allison and Gary Schmidt enjoying the summit
Crew from Boulder, CO on 7/5/09. Photo taken from the top of 'Tee the Ball'.
Crew from Boulder, CO on 7/5/09. Photo taken from ...
from afar
from afar
Robin Bickford just cruised up the thing. I kept telling her to put in more gear but she didn't listen. I guess that's nothing new
Robin Bickford just cruised up the thing. I kept t...
Looking down at Tricouni's summit.
Looking down at Tricouni's summit.
One of the most photographed simul-raps in the Needles. Tricouni Nail, May, 2003.
BETA PHOTO: One of the most photographed simul-raps in the Nee...
View of the nail from superpin
View of the nail from superpin
Me and Jon start the simul-rap, while my buddy from Veaudawoo (Vince) gets a taste of standing at the top of his first Needles summit, all during Pinfest 07
Me and Jon start the simul-rap, while my buddy fro...
Needles Rap!  2005.
Needles Rap! 2005.
Chuck at the last bolt, where it gets really steep with big crystals.
Chuck at the last bolt, where it gets really steep...
Kasi cleaning up the Tricouni Nail.
Kasi cleaning up the Tricouni Nail.
On Tricouni Nail, 2005.
On Tricouni Nail, 2005.
Belaying Krista up, summer 2005.
Belaying Krista up, summer 2005.

Comments on Tricouni Nail/Cerberus Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2006
Note that the notch to the West is the better for the rope when Simul-raping becasue it will pull more easily and eat less of your rope. This is the right side when facing down-hill.