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 ADVANCED
Pirate's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackbeard S 
Booty (aka Long John) S 
Oxymorons S 
Pirated S 
Scurvy Dog S 
Trick or Treat? (aka Captain Hook) S 
Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz) S 

Trick or Treat? (aka Captain Hook) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jay Foley and Mike Freeborn, 10/31/1997
Page Views: 962
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jan 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Eyes intent on the next jug after climbing through...

Description 

Good, long route, with a strenuous start and finish. Follow the first three bolts up and over a bulge. Past the third bolt, the climbing eases until the fifth bolt where the route begins to overhang slightly. Continue up the dark water streak to the crux just under the eighth bolt – good holds, but a committing reach to the ninth bolt. The anchors are also a bit awkward to clip. Watch for some loose cobbles near the center of the route.

Location 

Located near the center of Pirate’s Wall, just up hill from the Training Wall. Look for a dark streak on the top half of the wall. Captain Hook starts below the streak, and then follows it to the anchors.

Protection 

10 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


Photos of Trick or Treat? (aka Captain Hook) Slideshow Add Photo
Captain Hook (10d) and Walking the Plank (11c) on Pirate's Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Captain Hook (10d) and Walking the Plank (11c) on ...
Jake getting started on Trick or Treat?
Jake getting started on Trick or Treat?

Comments on Trick or Treat? (aka Captain Hook) Add Comment
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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 30, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I really enjoy this route. It's a little inconsistent with it being a bit difficult to start, cruiser easy in the middle and steep and strenous on the upper third of the route. But the jugs up there are big!
I believe this route is known as "Trick or Treat" in Foley's Taos Rock book.
By Jfoley
Jul 9, 2008

This one was first climbed on Halloween day 1997 by myself and Mike Freeborn. Because of the great finish combined with a less than perfect mid section we called it: Trick Or Treat?
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 9, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Thanks for the names and background info on these routes, Jay. I believe the naming confusion for a few of these came from the fact that Gary Clark did not know the names of the routes when he created his online guide so he gave them something more appealing than "Unnamed" and stated that he'd like to know the real names. In the updated G. Clark PDF, the real names have been added. Thanks!
By Armand Alexeev
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Near mid route there is a weak rock band to the left of the bolt line. There is easier climbing in this band, but after dodging a soccer ball sized ejection on belay I found a great line through or slightly right of the bolts. Beware!