Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cottontail Tower
Select Route:
Brer Rabbit T 
Free Gaza T 
Intifada 
Trick of the Tail T 
West Side Story 

Trick of the Tail 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A3+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 800', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A3+ [details]
FA: Jeremy Aslaksen & Paul Gagner
New Route: Yes
Season: All year baby
Page Views: 1,145
Submitted By: Jeremy Aslaksen on Dec 9, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pitch 4

Trick of the Tail 

The route pretty much starts about 100 feet right of the start of West Side Story. You will be able to see 1 bolt about 20 feet off the deck.

Head up following good cracks till you eventually hit Road Kill. At the top of the initial Road Kill pillar, climb road kill for 20 feet or so (clipping a Road Kill bolt) and start working right.

Eventually you will surmount a roof and belay. Head right on 5.10++ no hold slab climbing to a bolt (possible 40 footer over the roof and onto the belay) keep heading right (beaks) to another bolt and then cruise to the shoulder via the pretty good crack system (bolts here and there).

Once at the shoulder, cruise around the backside (Intifada) of Cottontail and climb the last pitch of WSS to the summit.


Rack:

12 - #1 Peckers
20 - #2 Peckers
10 - #3 Peckers
2 - Specters
3 sets small cams/offset cams
3 sets Camalots .5 to 3
2 sets Camalots 3.5 to 4
1 - 4.5 Camalot
Free shoes for pitch 4
Chalk bag to dry the fear on your fingers on pitch 4

Plus all the other nonsense you will need like Screamers, Bosuns, goggles...







Photos of Trick of the Tail Slideshow Add Photo
Route with belays marked
Route with belays marked
Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Pitch 3 just off the belay on Road Kill
Pitch 3 just off the belay on Road Kill
Pitch 5
Pitch 5
Topo courtesy of Paul Gagner
Topo courtesy of Paul Gagner

Comments on Trick of the Tail Add Comment
Show which comments
By BScallout
Dec 17, 2011

Thank you. Looks interesting. Nicely done!

Above comments deleted.
By Paul Gagner
Dec 31, 2011

Actually there's only one bolt 20 feet off the ground.

Great route - great partner - fun Fisher adventure!!

Paul