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Possibly the best of the 3 great 5.12+ lines on the wall. The most continuously difficult for sure though the difficulties are broken by a couple of great rests.
Start out with some long moves between pockets eventually reaching a good jug and some easier moves up to the pod system that runs the length of the wall. Catch a great rest here trying not to leave your foot behind in the hole. Move out of the rest with a fun boulder problem and a long dynamic move up to another rail and great rest. You have a couple of options to rest here and both are good. Move up onto the head wall with some long moves. An interesting traverse back left on underclings leads to some delicate moves up to the anchor.
You could also finish at the Broken Arrow anchor as the climbing naturally takes you to it.
6th from the left on the lower wall. Or the 3rd that starts off of the slab.
Bolts & Chains.
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 11, 2007
I enjoyed this one slightly more than Eagles, though they are both classic. This one is really sustained with no super hard moves (for the grade). There is an excellent toe-cam rest, and also a double kneebar just before the finish. This is more of an endurance climb than Eagles, and the real difficulty is keeping it together on the final dash to the anchors. The redpoint crux seems to be mounting the gray headwall. From the knee bar a sharp finger thread is used to setup for a long reach, or dyno (depending on the level of desparation) to a great pocket. Some cool undercling pockets and tricky traversing via crimps lead to the top of the wall. This one mercifully offers a great clipping jug at the finish.
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 24, 2009
This is definitely one of the best routes of the grade in the state.