This is a small crag about 80 foot tall lying about 400 feet SE of Gollum's Arch Rock. It has a handful of routes, at least two of which are pleasant. While certainly not a destination crag, it can be combined with routes on Twin Owls, Gollum's Arch Rock, and/or Rocks One through Six for a pleasant outing of short routing. The NW & SW faces hold the routes.
Descend the crag by scrambling down to the SE & circling back uphill to your packs.
From the new parking lot, you can take either trail to approach this crag as it makes basically a circle with the parking area being ~6 o'clock & this crag being ~12 o'clock. Either approach is ~1 mile. If you go west from the parking lot, you will need to head northeast after ~0.6 miles. Then, follow the trail that wanders up north between Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Hen & Chickens where the trail goes off to Gollum's Arch Rock. Where the trail starts uphill on log-reinforced steps, continue contouring about 200 yards to the triangular appearing rock. Do not mistake it for a small crag with water grooves on its W face (lying immediately SE of Gollum's Arch Rock) with a mixed line with 3 bolts on its S face. If you approach from the right (north) trail, head west when you T into the Gem Lake trail junction. From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Expect about 20-25 minutes.
You can (less ideal) ascend worn, switchbacked social trails from below the crag perhaps 100 yards E of Upper Twin Owls/Gollum's Arch Rock.
Climbing Season For the Lumpy Ridge area.
Weather station 1.4 miles from here
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Triangle Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Triangle Rock:
EB Jeebies 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Triangle Rock
EB Jeebies 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CO
: Lumpy Ridge
: Triangle Rock
This is a nice flake & groove to a jam crack in a dihedral that draws your eye as you inspect the short NW face. It lies just L of a deep water groove (Twig's Lament) and the W arête of the crag. Only 75 or 80 ft, it can pack a workout. This is often in the shade until mid afternoon.Find a boulder on the W arête of the crag, hop on. You can place a green alien from the boulder. Grab a hanging edge of the groove, muscle aboard. Work the edge & a crack above to good rests before the dihedral...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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