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Trial By Fire 
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Y Crack 

Trial By Fire 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Falkenstein and co.
Page Views: 2,539
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Jan 31, 2009
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Trial by Fire. Folks above are on Serenity Crack.
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Description 

Trial by Fire is the obvious trough-looking crack splitting the slab on the way up to the start of Super Slide. At nearly a full (old-school) ropelength, it provides a through introduction to the kind of grunty, meat-and-potatoes climbing that is so frequently encountered in the Valley. As such, it is worth seeking out on its own, although a nondescript second pitch links it into Super Slide. This would turn the latter from a casual romp into more of a half-day affair. Most people will expend more calories getting up the deceptively low-angle groove of Trial By Fire than on the alleged 5.9 business of Super Slide. Strong likelihood of seasonal wetness.


Location 

V-slot in slab uphill and to the left a couple hundred yards from the Royal Arches route chimney. Rap with two ropes, or continue. A 1-rope escape is possible from trees on the terraces below Super Slide (bring webbing).


Protection 

Don't skimp on the bigger stuff. Bolted anchor.



Photos of Trial By Fire Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling the crux for me - needed a stack.
Pulling the crux for me - needed a stack.
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 31, 2009

If you have the time or inclination after climbing Trial by Fire, try top-roping Demimonde (5.11c) off the same anchors either with 2 ropes or possibly a single 70m.

By Jacob Krenn
Feb 18, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

FA was Chris Falkenstein and co.

By Osprey
From: ...
Mar 14, 2010

Chris Faulkenstein hates offwidths. I asked him if that was why he put the chains in before the climb was really over. He said the chains were put in by whoever put up the face climb next to it (Demimonade .11c). If you want to finish the climb, continue past the chains to where it meets up with the Ahwahnee Buttress and Super Slab. Then rap down the fourth to the left.

FA: Chris Falkenstein, Don Reid, 3/1974

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Jun 7, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Harder than it looks! Bring a gear sling (for convenience) & wide gear (I placed 2 #4 & #5 4CUs & 1 #3 that barely worked). 2nd pitch linkup to SS is fun and not too dirty. I found it reasonable to step left from the chockstone left and cross a face to a crack system to bypass the first 'roof'. At the second 'roof' I cut left and found a tree with rap slings and enough spare rope to get to the base of P2 on Superslide in one pitch.

I highly recommend linking this route up with Super Slide for a nice long climb with a lot of variety.

I'd say that based on the other 5.8 wide stuff I've climbed (and my one experience with a 5.8 flared chimney), that this is a 5.8 & not a 5.9 if you know the technique for flares, OWs, and squeeze chimneys.

By jcurl
Oct 17, 2011

I was expecting this climb to be slippery and burly but instead found it to be surprisingly secure and fun. A single 70 meter rope is enough to rappel from the chains.

Marc Volland posted that Falkenstein told him that the chains went in along with Demimonde. But that's odd since the 1987 Meyers guide shows those two bolts as a 120' rappel -- four years before Demimonde was born.

By Jim Reynolds
Jan 15, 2012

As for protection i used a #3 and #4 BD Camelot. There are a few chockstones (2?) that can be used for protection. THe #3 helps get you through the first 15/20 ft. The #4 can be walked almost the entire rest of the pitch.

Pretty stout for 5.8 I thought, even though i consider myself a decent OW/Squeeze/Flare climber.

By Custer
From: Bergen, Hordaland
May 29, 2012

115 feet. Exactly enough to rap with a 70 meter rope.

By Mareko
From: San Francisco
Sep 17, 2012

When you're not really a chimney / offwidth climber its great for training and it's low angled. Think inchworm. Grovel and squeeze your way up. We use two #4 and one #5.

By Steve Gade
Jun 18, 2013

2nd Pitch has some sweet dirt jams with good pro. I will go this way to climb Superslide from now on.

By Alexey
From: San Jose
Jun 21, 2013

How "dirt jams" can be sweet?